I believe that one of Evans innovations involved getting the hole diameter in the plastic material just right so the plastic would fully fill the threads when crushed onto the lead screw, at the same time the nut halves came together. I don't recall the details, but if you subtract the minor diameter from the major diameter of the lead screw, then take about 1/3 of that figure and subtract that from the major diameter, you come up with a figure for the hole diameter in the plastic.
Things change if you bore the hole, then saw the future nut in half lengthwise. Might be better to start with two pieces, clamp them together, then bore the hole. If you want to bore first, then saw in half, you might want to bore the hole a bit larger than the figures would show.
During my experiments with casting the nut around the lead screw using some kind of epoxy, I ended up using a home made tap to open up the nut enough for free movement. This is not ideal as it chews up the plastic and leaves less area contact with the lead screw. In turn this allows play to develop. Better to be able to split the nut and adjust the amount of closure for the right fit, leaving the 'as cast' plastic surfaces untouched.
The epoxy material I used does not make the best nut, though I've never had any issues with the minimal uses I've put the machines to. Heat forming a slippery material makes a better nut, but as noted it becomes too tight when cool. I quit experimenting with this, but I had come to the conclusion that two 'third' nuts would have been the way to go. This won't fully surround the lead screw, but does give an adjustability factor that doesn't require any messing with the formed threads.
Things change if you bore the hole, then saw the future nut in half lengthwise. Might be better to start with two pieces, clamp them together, then bore the hole. If you want to bore first, then saw in half, you might want to bore the hole a bit larger than the figures would show.
During my experiments with casting the nut around the lead screw using some kind of epoxy, I ended up using a home made tap to open up the nut enough for free movement. This is not ideal as it chews up the plastic and leaves less area contact with the lead screw. In turn this allows play to develop. Better to be able to split the nut and adjust the amount of closure for the right fit, leaving the 'as cast' plastic surfaces untouched.
The epoxy material I used does not make the best nut, though I've never had any issues with the minimal uses I've put the machines to. Heat forming a slippery material makes a better nut, but as noted it becomes too tight when cool. I quit experimenting with this, but I had come to the conclusion that two 'third' nuts would have been the way to go. This won't fully surround the lead screw, but does give an adjustability factor that doesn't require any messing with the formed threads.
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