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I got a new lathe some time ago and it does not have oil groves on the compound, so would you put some in to help. Because high end lathes have them and do they work.
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I put oil grooves on the bottom way surfaces of my lathe saddle. I have some pics somewhere if you would like to see??
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yes joe I wouldComment
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Why not? They would work better if they started at a lubrication hole or fitting.Comment
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Yes, I would. My lathe has them. My bench mill did not so I added them also. JRComment
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Brett, here is my original post ........... this brings back memories. The set up pics of my saddle start at page 7.
How I laid out the grooves , machine set up etc.
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JL................Comment
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I would and did - added a GITs oiler and way wipers to each side too. The carriage I did with a dremel and carbide burr, the tailstock I did with a mill and small carbide ball nose end mill.Comment
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Interesting topic. I am interested in this too, my lathe is smooth ground (claims to be 61 HRC / 230 brinell) and has no oilers or oil nipples so I can dab oil directly into the cross slide or onto the bed ways.
I have considered merely drilling and tapping holes in the cross slide saddle over the centers of the ways and installing a nipple on each side. Then I can go with my oil can and put some oil straight onto the ways inside the area of the wipers. Not sure if I need oil ways for that procedure, also not sure if I need to flake or scrape anything. I have never done anything like that and the idea of doing it on my bed ways scares me, considering how well they seem to be doing right now.
EDIT: I read on thanks to google and definitely not scraping my bed ways if I can avoid it now:
Do Not Flake the bed ways. This is how we used to do it. Doing so, allows particles of grit to get trapped in the flaked areas and when the saddle passes over the bed, the saddle collects these pieces of crud and the wear process is accelerated to the point you have a worn out bed sooner than if you left the flaking off. Way wipers do not do a good job of wiping when it has to pass over flaking.
Now what you do is flake the underside of the ways of the saddle for oil retention. I remember the days of flaking unharden bed ways, some were over 6" wide, and those old machines had worn out beds in less than 3 years from daily continuous operation. And yes, they were lubricated with one-shot lubricators that were pumped once a day. You could see the "black crud" mixed in with the oil as the slides moved over the bed ways.Last edited by DennisCA; 04-04-2018, 02:18 AM.Comment
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It's only three pages long and all I see is PB speedos.Originally posted by JoeLee View PostBrett, here is my original post ........... this brings back memories. The set up pics of my saddle start at page 7.
How I laid out the grooves , machine set up etc.
JL................
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I wouldn't for the compound, it doesn't get moved enough.
For the cross slide or saddle I would however.AndyComment
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Sorry, that post is old. The pics are still there. You need to install the app for your browser and you'll be able to see them. There was a post started a few days ago with a link for the app for Fire Fox and Chrome. It works great.Originally posted by CCWKen View PostIt's only three pages long and all I see is PB speedos.
JL....................Comment
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Where are the pics and info on the original lathe?
That'll probably work for another week or two. Eventually there will be no backdoors to get to those images, so moving them now would be good. https://use.com has worked well since 2012 for me.Originally posted by JoeLee View PostComment
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I'm not installing that app, read the reviews on it...Comment
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to state the obvious, take what you read on internet with a grain of salt. Sometimes statements could be correct, but lack complete context. There is no exam required before posting advice, here and this post included lolOriginally posted by DennisCA View Post
If your bed has no wear, or at least not enough that you care about correcting, do nothing to it. When a bed is scraped its for one one purpose: to correct the geometry and bring it back to factory or better condition/accuracy. I don't see any advocates for scraping the bed for oil pockets (the oil pocket proponents would do so on the saddle afaik). If you do need to bring a bed to perfection, scraping can be an excellent choice. The reasons why I would choose to grind instead are 1) labour reduction and 2) if the bed was hardened. There is imo zero reason to otherwise prefer a ground to a scraped one. A properly scraped bed is a very smooth and accurate surface; wipers will have no trouble keeping it clean.
as for slides, as a rule I put in oil delivery everywhere I can whenever I have one apart. There is not reason not to, its easy work and its really the only way to ensure oil gets everywhere and flushes out whatever is underneath. mill channels with a 1/8" ball endmill so its distributed....after milling go over it with a burr file or Arkansas stone
here's to example - DSG compound and Maximat cross slide.....and for the heck of it, and to show this comes with at least some experience (vs Google expertise), here are a couple of beds I've scraped - the maximat 10 and a Holbrook B8. Each of these will almost not move a needle on a 10ths indicator, certainly it won't move it a a tenth. I can see no way a wiper will be any less effective on these surfaces than ground; I don't think I've ever heard that promoted as a reason not to scrape
Last edited by Mcgyver; 04-04-2018, 11:49 AM.located in Toronto OntarioComment
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What reviews??? It unlocked every ones pictures. What's the worst they can do?? figure out a way to block it.Originally posted by DennisCA View Post
JL................Comment
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