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This is made out of 1/2 inch aluminum, very fast and easy to make, just knock the ball oilers below the surface with a 5/16 punch and everything works well
No need for one, once I started using the steel rule or shim trick..
Before all that m I usually measure tool and stack, with a caliper, if it's .875 or so, it is good to go on my lathe...
I did the shim or ruler trick for a few times. But I since switched to a similar style height checker and I like it better. First off it's not diameter sensitive like the ruler trick is and secondly I don't have to keep fishing my ruler out of the chip tray.... call me clumsy if you must but I simply kept dropping it due to not wanting to dig into it too hard.
My gauge is a small short slug of 1" diameter material with a flat milled on the one side. My tool post is easily swiveled so I just swing it around so the tool is over the flat top of the compound where I check the height with the short little slug of a checker. Quick, easier than the ruler trick because I can loosen the tool height adjustment without dropping the ruler AGAIN and get back to the work.
[QUOTE=754;1169782]No need for one, once I started using the steel rule or shim trick..
Before all that m I usually measure tool and stack, with a caliper, if it's .875 or so, it is good to go on my lathe...[ How does that work with a boring bar or a .023 wide carbide o-ring grooving tool?
With a boring bar, I clamp a square bar in another slot and measure up the difference. Or just use the caliper.
Sometimes I swing then post around and Eyebal to my revolving center..
My gauge is a small short slug of 1" diameter material with a flat milled on the one side. My tool post is easily swiveled so I just swing it around so the tool is over the flat top of the compound where I check the height with the short little slug of a checker. Quick, easier than the ruler trick because I can loosen the tool height adjustment without dropping the ruler AGAIN and get back to the work.
I have even easier: two hex socket screws coupled together with extension/coupling nut. Lock nuts on both sides.
Been "thinking" of making a one with large base so that I don't need to rotate a boring bar or other long tools in the tool post to make the adjustment.
You need two rods in addition to the thing you will be making into the height gage. Ideally one is exactly half the diameter of the other. It measures from the lathe bed. The top of my cross slide is not flat but rounded so I cannot use it as a reference surface.
No need for one, once I started using the steel rule or shim trick..
Before all that m I usually measure tool and stack, with a caliper, if it's .875 or so, it is good to go on my lathe...
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