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Asking help regarding the thread “Quincy woes”

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  • AD5MB
    replied
    He got the nut off back in post number 9.
    if you said that at a Harley forum, or a VW forum, the howling would go on for days

    Leave a comment:


  • RichR
    replied
    He got the nut off back in post number 9.

    Leave a comment:


  • michigan doug
    replied
    For a short burst, which may be all you need, I have had good luck with a portable air tank and an impact gun.

    But you better know, with certainty, if it's LH or RH threads.

    Good luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • old mart
    replied
    Electric impact wrenches may be available at a tool hire shop.

    Leave a comment:


  • RMinMN
    replied
    Originally posted by Horst View Post
    Update; pulled the heads and definitely need valves. Unless I do have bottom end problems I do not need to remove the flywheel.
    Since you have the head off, rotate the flywheel until one piston is half way up the bore. Rock the flywheel slightly while watching the piston. There should be little rotation before the piston moves. Any slack in the rod bearings will make a lot of noise. This may tell you if you have such slack and which rod it might be if you do the same for both pistons.

    Leave a comment:


  • danlb
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Fisher View Post
    Lakeside has a good thought, the threads can often be observed past the nut, this will tell for sure RH or LH. If you are turning the wrong direction, it will. NEVER come Off. Bob.
    I beg to differ. When I was a teen I found that you can get a LH nut off the bolt by turning counter clockwise. A cheater bar and heavy vise helped.

    ( It broke the bolt)
    Last edited by danlb; 04-06-2018, 10:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Fisher
    replied
    Lakeside has a good thought, the threads can often be observed past the nut, this will tell for sure RH or LH. If you are turning the wrong direction, it will. NEVER come Off. Bob.

    Leave a comment:


  • cijuanni
    replied
    Originally posted by Horst View Post
    Update; pulled the heads and definitely need valves. Unless I do have bottom end problems I do not need to remove the flywheel.
    Not sure how bad reed valves would make the compressor have a 'nasty noise' < your term.
    Now when the reed valve retainer breaks off and falls down in the cylinder, banging to and fro, that can be a nasty noise. That is what happened on a QT 15 I tore down.

    Leave the flywheel on, pull the cylinders and rods and inspect, rotate crank and flywheel and feel for binding/rough crank bearings.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    Heating of a hub on taper isn't effective unless the heat is applied in mass and quickly; slowly and the crank stub simply is at the same temperature. yes, whack it when under tension

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  • Joel
    replied
    Originally posted by Horst View Post
    I can’t get the flywheel off. I’ve got a 3-prong puller on the hub, tightened as much as possible, and have heated the hub to 300°. No joy.
    While the puller was tight, did you give the center bolt a good, sharp pop with a largish hammer?

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  • Horst
    replied
    Update; pulled the heads and definitely need valves. Unless I do have bottom end problems I do not need to remove the flywheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Horst
    replied
    I think it is worth mentioning that none of the “QT-5” manuals bear any resemblance to my pump, which is clearly marked QT-5. My pump is a single stage V-4. Correction; pump is a "QTS-5"
    Last edited by Horst; 04-05-2018, 03:41 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Horst
    replied
    Manual says the nut is left-hand thread and torqued to 45 ft/lbs. so you need to turn it clockwise to loosen it. Page 4- http://engineservicesupply.com/conte...RTS%20BOOK.pdf


    The link you provided is for Record of Change #204. The manual I previously downloaded was for ROC #104, the lowest I could find. My pump is ROC #100. In the #104 manual there is no mention of LH threads in the plan portion but there is in the “part description” panel, which I did not bother to look at, so yes; clearly, I am going to have to read more carefully. The nut came right off. Thank you for having my six.

    Step 2; roadblock 2. I can’t get the flywheel off. I’ve got a 3-prong puller on the hub, tightened as much as possible, and have heated the hub to 300°. No joy.

    I have a thought. The only reason to remove the flywheel is to remove the pump. What occurred to me was that that might not be necessary if my problem is with the heads or cylinders. While I would prefer to have the pump on the bench, I am considering pulling the heads in situ.

    Leave a comment:


  • bfjou812
    replied
    The manual states the Loctite 272 is to be applied to the outer race of the bearing being assembled to the crankcase. The only thing it says about the nut id torque to 45 ft. lbs, left hand thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • KJ1I
    replied
    The manual shows they used Locktite 272. From the 272 datasheet:

    LOCTITE 272™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.

    For Disassembly: Apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250°C. Disassemble while hot.

    That's 482F. if you don't want to do the conversion yourself.

    Leave a comment:

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