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Bearing size and taper pin removal questions

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  • Bearing size and taper pin removal questions

    Sorry I keep posting about this mill I'm refurbishing (NOT rebuilding as in scraping etc). I noticed the auto down feed mechanism felt pretty crunchy so I took it apart figuring I'd cha ge the bearings. The larger bearing is one that came right up but the smaller one doesn't. It's stamped 3200 which I suppose is an obsolete number. After all the mill IS 76 years old. When I google the number I get a couple of different crosses like 6200 and 5200. The dimension for these don't match the 3200 bearing I have. The dimensions for my bearing is 10X30X10mm. When I google this I get some hits but when I visit the site from the hit(s) they come back as 10X30X9?? If anyone knows of the best way that I can get the proper size bearing I'd appreciate the input.
    Another issue I am looking for advice on is the taper pin (I'm assuming it's a taper pin) that's securing the worm gear. For some reason the pin and gear were ground down and the taper pin is very difficult to see. Will I be OK with just wrapping on what I assume is the smaller end? Hopefully it can be seen in the 3rd photo. Is there a better way for me to make the pin stand out from the gear?
    Many thanks as usual.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Any bearing supply house should be able to cross the numbers you have or come up with something going by the dimensions.

    As far as the pin..... What you show in your picture looks like it would be the larger end of the tapered pin going by what size pin they would use based on the shaft dia.

    Since you found one end of the pin you know where the other end is. Try wiping some cold blue over the area. The pin being a different material, harder or softer than the gear should take the blue differently and stand out.

    JL...........

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    • #3
      Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
      Any bearing supply house should be able to cross the numbers you have or come up with something going by the dimensions.

      As far as the pin..... What you show in your picture looks like it would be the larger end of the tapered pin going by what size pin they would use based on the shaft dia.

      Since you found one end of the pin you know where the other end is. Try wiping some cold blue over the area. The pin being a different material, harder or softer than the gear should take the blue differently and stand out.

      JL...........
      Thanks for the cold blue idea. I show both ends of the taper pin. The small end in #3 and the larger in #4.

      Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        OK, I see the other end your talking about in the double picture, gashed up a bit. I guess you can't seethe other end of the pin. Try filing area smooth and it may show.
        On a second note.... I have seen instances where tapered pins were driven into blind holes.

        You may also want to try putting a little heat to the area. Sometimes that will make the pin show up.

        Tapered pins usually come out pretty easy if you tap the small end. All you have to do is nudge .001 and it's loose.

        JL..............
        Last edited by JoeLee; 06-06-2018, 08:21 PM.

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        • #5
          Some tapered pin don't come out easy. An old trick is to dip them in liquid nitrogen and insert. Great..

          I had to drill some, tap and make a puller for some. grrr...

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          • #6
            If the only available bearings are 9mm wide instead of 10 just make 1mm thick shims for the inner and outer races.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Illinoyance View Post
              If the only available bearings are 9mm wide instead of 10 just make 1mm thick shims for the inner and outer races.
              Yup, that's what I ended up doing. Thanks

              Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
                Some tapered pin don't come out easy. An old trick is to dip them in liquid nitrogen and insert. Great..

                I had to drill some, tap and make a puller for some. grrr...
                Not everyone has liquid nitrogen kicking around the shop. I've had to drill and tap a few or TIG the rod to it and slide hammer it out.

                JL..............

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                • #9
                  You miss my point... I HATE people that do that "trick". MY TUM lathe was covered in them done that way from the factory. Looks pretty - nice domes on the fat end with no hammer marks; pure misery to get out.

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                  • #10
                    What point??? you didn't mention anything about the factory insertion method. I understand now, they chill / shrink them and drop in place. The OP is trying to get one out,not insert it.

                    JL...............

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                    • #11
                      The lost point was someone or factory may have put in the LN way..

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