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[OT]Ideas for split-level shed/workshop built into hill

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  • #91
    Today John and I got the bottom blocks of the two piers set and (mostly) level:
    Click image for larger version

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    The one in front looks a bit crooked, but it's solidly planted and not really too far from level. Both blocks have 1/2" rerod pounded into the earth and the cavities are packed with rocks and concrete. I added four anchor bolts in the left side, and also packed with rocks and concrete.
    Click image for larger version

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    I laid a 10 foot length of 2x6 (it is actually straight) on the back side course, and it is pretty straight, within 1/4" or better. Slow shutter speed, shaky hands, and low light error - sorry. But the course of masonry is good enough!
    Click image for larger version

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    Another view of the piers, before adding the second course with mortar, concrete fill, and anchors.
    Click image for larger version

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    The left side course does have a considerable hump in the middle, but only about 1/4" on each end. Easily shimmed when I fasten the 2x8 mud sills followed by 4x6 joists.
    Click image for larger version

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    I might be able to finish the masonry work Friday or Saturday, and then let it cure for a few days. Today was warm enough - 60F or so, but next few days highs will be 40s to low 50s, and lows just above freezing. I might cover the work with tarps, blankets, or other insulation - maybe even leaves - to keep moisture from evaporating. Curing (hydration) of concrete an mortar pretty much stops at 40F and can be damaged by freezing.
    http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
    Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
    USA Maryland 21030

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    • #92
      It will be fine Paul, its just a shed and I am sure it will last as long as the last one. Where are you located?

      Retired - Journeyman Refrigeration Pipefitter - Master Electrician - Fine Line Automation CNC 4x4 Router

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      • #93
        See my sig - I'm in central MD near Baltimore. I know this shed will be just fine, but I'm using this project as an incentive to get exercise as well as the experience of doing something "right" and hopefully actually finishing it. Thanks for the words of encouragement
        http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
        Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
        USA Maryland 21030

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        • #94
          If you don't see the SIG, go to your own settings to enable displaying sigs.
          At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

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          • #95
            Work on the shed has been slow due to colder weather, shorter days, rain, and holidays.

            Foundation:


            Click image for larger version

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            Floor Frame:
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            Floor - 3/4" Advantech particle board - before final trim:
            Click image for larger version

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            Cut some 2x4s for the barn style rafters - basically half of an octagon with 40" facets and about 108" across points for a 96" span with 6" overhangs.
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            Water spots on the lens really showed up with flash!

            Here are the detailed plans for measuring and cutting the various pieces. Note I will have a 48" wide door on each end, a 30" door on the front, and a window in the back. Note how well the gussets work out, all cut from a 12" x 48" piece of plywood with no waste. And the rafters are all identical
            .
            Click image for larger version

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            http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
            Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
            USA Maryland 21030

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            • #96
              I always paint the floor framing and bottom of the flooring with either an oil base paint or a sealer followed by a coat of good latex. It extends the life of both

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