Nope, SS rod isn't for cast iron. There is Nickel 55 rod but it is harder to machine. 316 SS has low nickel and a bunch of chrome. The Nickel 99 is the best. Preheat the camshaft to 300F in the oven first and stitch the weld on opposite sides a bit at a time.
rebuild cam
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Thanks Evan. I will get the nickel as you sugest. I found an old cam today and I can test on it. Thanks for the preheat tip .
Thanks Weird but I tried this on a manifold a few years back with an old Chevy and I faled. I was told later by the guy that gave me the used rings that they came from a Ford. Just can't fool them Chevyies.
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Not a welder, flux core wire is my hot ticket, but I would suggest looking into the possibility of using metal spray as a means to build up the worn area. Kind of slow and easy approach. Note that several techniques have been used to rotate lifters e.g. slight taper to cam profile, offset lifter bore and crowned lifter face. After careful buildup use the good surface as a file guide to bring down any proud metal, slow and easy does it.
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Neil Peters
[This message has been edited by NAMPeters (edited 09-02-2004).]Neil Peters
When on the hunt, a broken part is better than no part at all.
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Neil Peters: Thanks on the spray welding. I am still researching this for use in my shop. I do a lot of shaft rebuild and machining. It appears a lot of preheat and machining is required to use this process. I checked it out and it is better as a surface coating process as opposed to a repair or build up.
Evan: I ordered nickel rods today. What a shocker. $400.00 per 10lb. I was lucky they had an open box with a half pack left because of an error or I would be paying for the full box. Wicked price. I order 7/32s. Will my heat settings be similar to 7018 or more like 316SS? DC of course.
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Gunsmith,
You are paying too much for that rod. I looked up some prices and it runs around $25 per pound for 1/8" nickel 99 rod.
See
As to welding you may find this article useful. Here is an excerpt.
"By using a low welding current, a
small-diameter electrode, and depositing
multiple narrow beads, only the lower
layer of weld metal has a very high carbon
content. Subsequent layers of weld
metal tend to temper and reduce hardness
of the first layer.
Complete flux removal is essential
after each weld pass before depositing
further weld metal since entrapped slag
can impair the strength properties of the
weld."
Also, peening the weld while hot will reduce shrinkage and reduce distortion. As I said above don't try to weld it all in one go.
[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 09-03-2004).]Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here
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