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OT: Wood Project - Routing End Grain

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
    OK, I'll bite. My pre-stain treatment is sandpaper. Is that what you meant? Or what?
    I use a commercial "prestain" material that is basically similar to a "sanding sealer", bu which is diluted to leave less behind. Partly fills the pores so that the stain does not soak in so thoroughly. End grain is an issue, might take more than one "coat".

    For basic absorbent wood, I usually use just one, to control soak-in and even out the way the stain goes in. I am 3 floors above the shop right now, I can go look at the stuff later and get a name.
    CNC machines only go through the motions.

    Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
    Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
    Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
    I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
    Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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    • #17
      Just paint it

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      • #18
        I have made wood items which needed the end grain to be shaped. As others mentioned routing may work but likely some tearout.

        These days I may shape the end grain by hand. Draw the curve/outline on the end grain pieces and hog out most of the wood with a rasp. This goes fast. I then hand sand to remove rasp marks and get the wood smooth. Likely start at 80 - 100 grit and work up to 400 - 600 grit.

        I have found sanding the end grain to a fine grit reduces the amount of stain which will remain when you wipe off the stain. Do a test, you may even be able to avoid using the sanding sealer or commerical products like Minwax Stain PreConditioner, which works well.

        Dave.

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        • #19
          Blaaaaa!



          Originally posted by elf View Post
          Just paint it
          Paul A.
          SE Texas

          And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
          You will find that it has discrete steps.

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          • #20
            Stick a piece of square stock on the end of one side (like edging a shelf, just a bit larger by 1/16” or so)
            Breaks the corner, hides both ends
            Mark

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            • #21
              I haven't followed the design aspects, only the part about tear out in routing end grain.

              What works for me is to rough the area to be routed down near to size by sawing, coarse sanding or whatever method you have. Then spray the area with a sanding sealer, the sealer tends to lock the wood fibers from tear outs. The sanding sealer can be pretty much any quick drying clear finish, Deft in a rattle can is one product I usually have on hand. Then route with a climb cut. Be aware the soaked in sanding sealer may affect the finish being applied.

              Climb cuts done with a hand held router can be problematic. Whenever possible I do climb cuts in the milling machine. Even with the lower rpm of the mill compared to a wood router, the rigidity of the mill's work and cutter holding makes up for the lack of rpm.

              In general, staining soft pine may not be so good an idea. If you must, use a non-penetrating type stain to avoid the splotchy appearance caused by uneven absorption with penetrating stains in soft wood. IMHO, trying to turn a relatively cheap wood like pine into a more expensive looking dark wood never works very well.

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