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No markings on tail stock quill

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  • 754
    replied
    Check eBay to see if you can find used with markings or did none of them come marked ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Alciatore
    replied
    I agree that a simple rule is as accurate as is needed for this. And I love to use those neo magnets for things so I salute their use here.

    But this idea does need a flat top tailstock or a bit more of an addition. I guess a piece of angle and some epoxy could provide that flat, top surface.

    So the reading is zeroed by sliding the index piece? Don't the magnets pick up a lot of swarf?



    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    I did something similar to what mars-red is suggesting. It pretty much needs a flat top side with this simpler style. Small rare earth magnets hold the ruler to the nose plate and the small piece of aluminium angle as the movable index marker to the corner of the main body.



    The neat thing with this method is that I always have a 6" scale ready at hand for a quick measurement.

    I've never needed to measure anything I've done with the tail stock to anything finer than I can do with the ruler. But I can see where some operations would be better done with a dial gauge or with a converted caliper. It would not take a whole lot of work for me to make a magnetic holder for a dial gauge to read off the upper ear if I were doing something that required that sort of accuracy. But for the lion's share of my work the ruler has proven to be more than close enough for depth of drilled holes and the like.

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    I did something similar to what mars-red is suggesting. It pretty much needs a flat top side with this simpler style. Small rare earth magnets hold the ruler to the nose plate and the small piece of aluminium angle as the movable index marker to the corner of the main body.



    The neat thing with this method is that I always have a 6" scale ready at hand for a quick measurement.

    I've never needed to measure anything I've done with the tail stock to anything finer than I can do with the ruler. But I can see where some operations would be better done with a dial gauge or with a converted caliper. It would not take a whole lot of work for me to make a magnetic holder for a dial gauge to read off the upper ear if I were doing something that required that sort of accuracy. But for the lion's share of my work the ruler has proven to be more than close enough for depth of drilled holes and the like.

    Leave a comment:


  • mars-red
    replied
    If you don't want to machine any of the existing components (such as the tailstock ram) then you could make a collar that fits onto the end of the ram, then a rod with a pointer that fits into that collar and projects back over the tailstock itself. You can glue a machinists rule (or part of one) to the tailstock underneath where the pointer travels, to use as a scale. If the scale is shorter than the travel of the ram, just make the pointer easily adjustable - either have the pointer adjust along the extension rod, or have the extension rod adjustable through the collar attached to the ram. Of course the collar could easily be moved along the ram as necessary, and removed completely when it's not needed and/or if it gets in the way.

    My Rivett also does not have graduations of any kind, and this has been my plan for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mcgyver
    replied
    you guys must be doing fancy work. I usually eyeball the drill entering the work, i.e. the point where its just at full dia and make a pencil mark on the quill where it leaves the tailstock casting, at its wiper housing. I hold the ID legs of a caliper to this and the wiper housing, and remembering not to get tricked by parallax, drill to the present distance on the caliper. A bit crude but easier imo in that there is no counting of small lines or remember which small line you started on

    Leave a comment:


  • livesteam
    replied
    As boslab says, I to milled a close fitting 1/4" groove in the top of the barrel to fit a General Tools #301 pocket scale.
    Then screwed a polished a block of clear plexiglas with indice groove to the TS casting above the scale.
    Major use is drilling to depth. Scale has 1/64" grads.
    RichD

    Leave a comment:


  • boslab
    replied
    If it’s the barrel scale, mill a groove to fit the leg of a depth guage, old starret or whatever an epoxy in
    Mark

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  • big job
    replied
    The old man is confused, but that's fun. I am trying to figure why graduations are needed on
    the quill > tail stock quill. Are you trying to drill or bore to whatever depth? Seems everyone
    now a days has to think the hard way. Old way, easy way, just put a radiator hose clamp on
    the quill and use a dial indicator with a mag. base now ain't that easy? or I'm missing something ? but remember with any lathe tighten the quill lock enough for a little drag on it. sam

    Leave a comment:


  • danlb
    replied
    There is no reason that you can't use a scribe to scratch marks into the quill.

    I saw a shaft on a machine at the bowling alley that used a self stick ruler such as this https://www.amazon.com/Thermoweb-Sti.../dp/B002E3IFUS applied to a shallow flat that was milled into the top of the quill.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Edwards
    replied
    Here are a couple of ideas...

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/61242-Dro

    Leave a comment:


  • MattiJ
    replied
    Maybe inexpensive digital caliper addition like many others have done?

    Leave a comment:


  • labop
    started a topic No markings on tail stock quill

    No markings on tail stock quill

    I traded my well used South Bend for an 11x32 Summit. Great improvement in hp, has taper attachment, and just overall tighter and better condition. So I'm happy except for one thing no depth markings on quill like 0.1 and no 0.001 on hand wheel. I can do without 0.001 on hand wheel as I could indicate off the face of the quill in a rarely needed setup. Has anyone put a scale on the quill? I thought about using a slitting saw in my Bridgeport.
    Labop
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