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  • BCRider
    replied
    The clamp on bracket is only 1/4" thick. And it's the 1/4" that I can't use because even with the bracket in position the tapers I've got all hit the ejector before the bracket contacts the body of the tailstock.

    I also think that most lathes I've used tended to eject the tapers before the rams fully went away. Oh sure, the rams will retract fully. But if they can't hold an arbor with the ram that far in then it's not really usable travel anyway.

    At any rate the bracket, ruler and sliding index work for me and I find it extremely handy. And I find the ruler and slider far more friendly to use than the marks on the ram. But to each their own.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    I did something similar to what mars-red is suggesting. It pretty much needs a flat top side with this simpler style. Small rare earth magnets hold the ruler to the nose plate and the small piece of aluminium angle as the movable index marker to the corner of the main body.

    ............

    The neat thing with this method is that I always have a 6" scale ready at hand for a quick measurement.

    I've never needed to measure anything I've done with the tail stock to anything finer than I can do with the ruler. But I can see where some operations would be better done with a dial gauge or with a converted caliper. It would not take a whole lot of work for me to make a magnetic holder for a dial gauge to read off the upper ear if I were doing something that required that sort of accuracy. But for the lion's share of my work the ruler has proven to be more than close enough for depth of drilled holes and the like.
    Lathes that can have the ram pretty much flush with the T/S lose that much travel from the clamp. If you only have 2 3/8" total, losing a half inch to some bogus clamp is undesirable.

    Just scribe marks on the top of the ram. It works, and requires no reduction of the travel. The Logan is graduated in 1/8" increnpments, but the screw is probably 1/10", I never worry closer than that..... I use a micrometer stop if I need more precision.


    As for the spoiled brats.... those shops like you describe went broke in the 1930s if not before... unless they were really out in the boonies. Probably by 1910 anywhere "real".
    Last edited by J Tiers; 10-05-2018, 01:16 AM.

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  • Baz
    replied
    Gosh, sounds like there are some spoiled brats on here. Many lathes before the 'fifties didn't even have cross slide handwheel markings, had 16tpi threads and the old guys working them had to borrow the only rule in the shop off the foreman to set their callipers.

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  • danlb
    replied
    I'll be happy when Amazon fixes the Alexa parser. For instance, I have a group of lamps named headboard placed, conveniently on each end of the bed's headboard.

    This works: Alexa, turn the headboard off.

    This does not: Alexa, turn headboard off.

    Sigh.

    Back on topic..

    There are ways to etch markings onto a tailstock using a battery and acid. My tailstocks have very coarse markings on them. One has 1/8 inch and 1mm markings as well as a .001 divisions on the handwheel (.050 per revolution).

    The other has 1/16 inch markings on the quill and no markings on the handwheel, but I marked the collar and measured the movement as .059 per rev. Yep, 1.5mm pitch I have used magnets and a caliper to measure to the back of the drill chuck. When I just need a ballpark I have been known to count full or partial revs.

    Dan

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by Glug View Post
    Machines are going to solve all this for us:

    "Alexa, how do I drill a hole on my *$)@* lathe?"
    That would be hilarious.... especially when "they" come out with an adaptive learning Alexa that picks up on the household's language practices and like a bad parrot learns to cuss as much as the masters....

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  • Glug
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    I'd have to say that we need to take into account the CRAFT quotient. CRAFT being "Can't Remember a *$)@*! Thing".
    Machines are going to solve all this for us:

    "Alexa, how do I drill a hole on my *$)@* lathe?"

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  • BCRider
    replied
    ....There are so many things I take for granted living in the civilized world.
    Oooooo... SNAP GURL! ! !

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  • Black Forest
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    Far from it. My old Myford ML7 did not. The three or four 9" South Bend lathes I've seen over the years starting in high school ship didn't and neither did my Father's big 12 or 13" South Bend. Nor did an old Logan that I used now and then at work.

    My Asian 12x36 has the scale wheel and it's settable too. And in fact I think it's the first lathe I've ever worked on that has a tailstock thread number that makes any sense. I could use the marks on the ram in conjunction with the handwheel scale. But that would mean I'd have to set the tailstock's ram on a specific line before sliding into position. It's just easier to use the ruler and the positionable index marker. And as mentioned I've never needed the accuracy while drilling where I needed to be that specific that the handwheel's scale in connection with the ruler would have been needed.
    OK, thanks for the info. There are so many things I take for granted living in the civilized world.

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
    I thought all lathes had a scale wheel on the handwheel of the tailstock. My two lathes do and they can be set just like the X and Y.
    Far from it. My old Myford ML7 did not. The three or four 9" South Bend lathes I've seen over the years starting in high school ship didn't and neither did my Father's big 12 or 13" South Bend. Nor did an old Logan that I used now and then at work.

    My Asian 12x36 has the scale wheel and it's settable too. And in fact I think it's the first lathe I've ever worked on that has a tailstock thread number that makes any sense. I could use the marks on the ram in conjunction with the handwheel scale. But that would mean I'd have to set the tailstock's ram on a specific line before sliding into position. It's just easier to use the ruler and the positionable index marker. And as mentioned I've never needed the accuracy while drilling where I needed to be that specific that the handwheel's scale in connection with the ruler would have been needed.

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  • Black Forest
    replied
    I thought all lathes had a scale wheel on the handwheel of the tailstock. My two lathes do and they can be set just like the X and Y.

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  • MasterMaker
    replied
    Bolt a set of cheap digital calipers to it, can be zeroed out at any point mmaking it very easy to achieve precise depth and very easy to read, cheap fiber reinforced plastic ones are easy to cut and drill, cost less than 10$ and are accurate to 0.1 mm and for a tail-stock that is all the precision you need.

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  • 754
    replied
    Backing out does not count.. if you backed out at 5 1/2 and resume drilling, next time crank comes to start point it's a 6.. easy....

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by mf205i
    An alternate method.
    Establish what the quill movement per turn of your hand wheel is. For example, its .125 on my Monarch. So, to drill a 1 inch deep hole requires 8 revolutions of the hand wheel, 9/16 needs 4.5 turns etc. It’s easy to interpolate 1/16 of a turn of the hand wheel, that’s .0078 on the Monarch and .0039 on the baby.
    Simple, fast, repeatable, accurate and you don’t need your readers. If you try it a few times, it is doubtful that you will miss the scale.
    Mike
    While I agree that this is an obvious way to do it and makes perfect sense I'd have to say that we need to take into account the CRAFT quotient. CRAFT being "Can't Remember a *$)@*! Thing".

    When I start having to back out to clear chips it's WAY too easy to forget what the turn count was. Thus my own solution for the rule and movable index point.

    The ruler also has the benefit that I can take note of the progress and spin the ram out and back in rapidly and stop a 1/32" or 1mm before I crash the drill bit or boring bar into the end of the cut..... in fact it makes me think that a second index marker that I can slide to the end of the rule would be a helpful addition. I could be running a drill or bore plunge and just before retracting the ram I could zip the index up to match the tail end of the rule as a guide for the follow up.
    Last edited by BCRider; 10-02-2018, 05:35 PM.

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  • 754
    replied
    Altho mine is marked, i often just count turns, its 100 or 200 thou..per turn..

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  • BCRider
    replied
    From Paul A.....

    So the reading is zeroed by sliding the index piece? Don't the magnets pick up a lot of swarf?
    Yes and no.

    The little marker made from some cut down aluminium angle stock, for the sharp corners, can slide along the corner of the main body. Clearly I can't zero it since I can't reach the zero. Instead I just "1" it or "2" it ....

    As for swarf the odd time I do need to wipe the spots clean. And you can even see a bit of build up in the hollow end of the hole where the magnet is located on the ram plate part. But it has proven over the years to be a non issue. It's far enough back that very little gets within range of the magnets. And since the working faces are flush with the aluminium it's proven super easy to wipe then clean with a finger. Once the swarf is away from the magnet and onto the alloy it just comes off on my finger or falls clear. In the roughly 15 years or more that I've had this little gizmo in use I may have found I needed to wipe the magnets clean about a couple of dozen times. The worst being when the little index piece gets knocked off and falls into the chip tray. At those times I have had to use a little patch of duct tape to pull the chips off to fully clean it.

    The need for a flat smooth surface is certainly there. Or if not a flat surface then some manner of track that holds the ruler and provides a way of holding the index marker.

    My own ram does have measurement markings. But I never really found them all that useful since I had no way to add an index marker of any sort. This ruler idea with movable marker has proven to suit me far more often.

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