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No markings on tail stock quill

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  • No markings on tail stock quill

    I traded my well used South Bend for an 11x32 Summit. Great improvement in hp, has taper attachment, and just overall tighter and better condition. So I'm happy except for one thing no depth markings on quill like 0.1 and no 0.001 on hand wheel. I can do without 0.001 on hand wheel as I could indicate off the face of the quill in a rarely needed setup. Has anyone put a scale on the quill? I thought about using a slitting saw in my Bridgeport.
    Labop

  • #2
    Maybe inexpensive digital caliper addition like many others have done?

    Comment


    • #3
      Here are a couple of ideas...

      http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/61242-Dro

      Comment


      • #4
        There is no reason that you can't use a scribe to scratch marks into the quill.

        I saw a shaft on a machine at the bowling alley that used a self stick ruler such as this https://www.amazon.com/Thermoweb-Sti.../dp/B002E3IFUS applied to a shallow flat that was milled into the top of the quill.
        At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

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        • #5
          The old man is confused, but that's fun. I am trying to figure why graduations are needed on
          the quill > tail stock quill. Are you trying to drill or bore to whatever depth? Seems everyone
          now a days has to think the hard way. Old way, easy way, just put a radiator hose clamp on
          the quill and use a dial indicator with a mag. base now ain't that easy? or I'm missing something ? but remember with any lathe tighten the quill lock enough for a little drag on it. sam

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          • #6
            If it’s the barrel scale, mill a groove to fit the leg of a depth guage, old starret or whatever an epoxy in
            Mark

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            • #7
              As boslab says, I to milled a close fitting 1/4" groove in the top of the barrel to fit a General Tools #301 pocket scale.
              Then screwed a polished a block of clear plexiglas with indice groove to the TS casting above the scale.
              Major use is drilling to depth. Scale has 1/64" grads.
              RichD
              RichD, Canton, GA

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              • #8
                you guys must be doing fancy work. I usually eyeball the drill entering the work, i.e. the point where its just at full dia and make a pencil mark on the quill where it leaves the tailstock casting, at its wiper housing. I hold the ID legs of a caliper to this and the wiper housing, and remembering not to get tricked by parallax, drill to the present distance on the caliper. A bit crude but easier imo in that there is no counting of small lines or remember which small line you started on
                .

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                • #9
                  If you don't want to machine any of the existing components (such as the tailstock ram) then you could make a collar that fits onto the end of the ram, then a rod with a pointer that fits into that collar and projects back over the tailstock itself. You can glue a machinists rule (or part of one) to the tailstock underneath where the pointer travels, to use as a scale. If the scale is shorter than the travel of the ram, just make the pointer easily adjustable - either have the pointer adjust along the extension rod, or have the extension rod adjustable through the collar attached to the ram. Of course the collar could easily be moved along the ram as necessary, and removed completely when it's not needed and/or if it gets in the way.

                  My Rivett also does not have graduations of any kind, and this has been my plan for it.
                  Max
                  http://joyofprecision.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I did something similar to what mars-red is suggesting. It pretty much needs a flat top side with this simpler style. Small rare earth magnets hold the ruler to the nose plate and the small piece of aluminium angle as the movable index marker to the corner of the main body.



                    The neat thing with this method is that I always have a 6" scale ready at hand for a quick measurement.

                    I've never needed to measure anything I've done with the tail stock to anything finer than I can do with the ruler. But I can see where some operations would be better done with a dial gauge or with a converted caliper. It would not take a whole lot of work for me to make a magnetic holder for a dial gauge to read off the upper ear if I were doing something that required that sort of accuracy. But for the lion's share of my work the ruler has proven to be more than close enough for depth of drilled holes and the like.
                    Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                    • #11
                      I agree that a simple rule is as accurate as is needed for this. And I love to use those neo magnets for things so I salute their use here.

                      But this idea does need a flat top tailstock or a bit more of an addition. I guess a piece of angle and some epoxy could provide that flat, top surface.

                      So the reading is zeroed by sliding the index piece? Don't the magnets pick up a lot of swarf?



                      Originally posted by BCRider View Post
                      I did something similar to what mars-red is suggesting. It pretty much needs a flat top side with this simpler style. Small rare earth magnets hold the ruler to the nose plate and the small piece of aluminium angle as the movable index marker to the corner of the main body.



                      The neat thing with this method is that I always have a 6" scale ready at hand for a quick measurement.

                      I've never needed to measure anything I've done with the tail stock to anything finer than I can do with the ruler. But I can see where some operations would be better done with a dial gauge or with a converted caliper. It would not take a whole lot of work for me to make a magnetic holder for a dial gauge to read off the upper ear if I were doing something that required that sort of accuracy. But for the lion's share of my work the ruler has proven to be more than close enough for depth of drilled holes and the like.
                      Paul A.
                      SE Texas

                      Make it fit.
                      You can't win and there IS a penalty for trying!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Check eBay to see if you can find used with markings or did none of them come marked ?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          From Paul A.....

                          So the reading is zeroed by sliding the index piece? Don't the magnets pick up a lot of swarf?
                          Yes and no.

                          The little marker made from some cut down aluminium angle stock, for the sharp corners, can slide along the corner of the main body. Clearly I can't zero it since I can't reach the zero. Instead I just "1" it or "2" it ....

                          As for swarf the odd time I do need to wipe the spots clean. And you can even see a bit of build up in the hollow end of the hole where the magnet is located on the ram plate part. But it has proven over the years to be a non issue. It's far enough back that very little gets within range of the magnets. And since the working faces are flush with the aluminium it's proven super easy to wipe then clean with a finger. Once the swarf is away from the magnet and onto the alloy it just comes off on my finger or falls clear. In the roughly 15 years or more that I've had this little gizmo in use I may have found I needed to wipe the magnets clean about a couple of dozen times. The worst being when the little index piece gets knocked off and falls into the chip tray. At those times I have had to use a little patch of duct tape to pull the chips off to fully clean it.

                          The need for a flat smooth surface is certainly there. Or if not a flat surface then some manner of track that holds the ruler and provides a way of holding the index marker.

                          My own ram does have measurement markings. But I never really found them all that useful since I had no way to add an index marker of any sort. This ruler idea with movable marker has proven to suit me far more often.
                          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                          • #14
                            Altho mine is marked, i often just count turns, its 100 or 200 thou..per turn..

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mf205i
                              An alternate method.
                              Establish what the quill movement per turn of your hand wheel is. For example, its .125 on my Monarch. So, to drill a 1 inch deep hole requires 8 revolutions of the hand wheel, 9/16 needs 4.5 turns etc. It’s easy to interpolate 1/16 of a turn of the hand wheel, that’s .0078 on the Monarch and .0039 on the baby.
                              Simple, fast, repeatable, accurate and you don’t need your readers. If you try it a few times, it is doubtful that you will miss the scale.
                              Mike
                              While I agree that this is an obvious way to do it and makes perfect sense I'd have to say that we need to take into account the CRAFT quotient. CRAFT being "Can't Remember a *$)@*! Thing".

                              When I start having to back out to clear chips it's WAY too easy to forget what the turn count was. Thus my own solution for the rule and movable index point.

                              The ruler also has the benefit that I can take note of the progress and spin the ram out and back in rapidly and stop a 1/32" or 1mm before I crash the drill bit or boring bar into the end of the cut..... in fact it makes me think that a second index marker that I can slide to the end of the rule would be a helpful addition. I could be running a drill or bore plunge and just before retracting the ram I could zip the index up to match the tail end of the rule as a guide for the follow up.
                              Last edited by BCRider; 10-02-2018, 05:35 PM.
                              Chilliwack BC, Canada

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