No announcement yet.

Lathe Stand completed

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Lathe Stand completed

    It's been a while since I posted but want to thank all for the input regarding ideas of mounting my new lathe.

    I recently bought a PM1228 and needed to build a stand. The lathe was going to be set up on the second floor of my garage which made the "foundation" somewhat susceptible to shifts over time and temperature. I looked at davidpbest torsion beam design and based my design on it. Apparently, this technique is used to mount lathes in ships where everything moves and shifts. I used two heavy 7"x2" C-channels welded together to form a 7x4 tube. As per david's design, I put an angle on either end of the beam with threaded adjusters on each end of the angles to act as levelers and bolts to lock it in place. I built a simple frame out of 2" square tubing 0.125" wall and put casters with built-in leveling pads so I can move the machine when/if needed but then lock it in place and level the frame. What I found was that after I leveled the frame on the uneven floor there wasn't much need to level the torsion beam. While testing a sample piece in the lathe with a DTI and looking at the twist, I found that the beam was so stiff that the twist adjusters had not effect on the beam itself. I did find that by varying the torque on the 4 mounting bolts the lathe frame would twist which meant that the beam wasn't truly flat. After a bit of shimming and torquing, the machine was solid and no twist and the lathe turned true.

    Bottom line is that the torsion beam is so stiff that I doubt the 2" frame is having any effect which means that the shifting of the garage should have no effect either.

    Once again, thanks for the input. I feel I ended up with a reasonably stable/stiff setup without being overly complicated or heavy.


    here are a few pics:

  • #2
    Very nice, Steve. Thanks for sharing.


    • #3
      Beautiful job sru_tx and a clean and beautiful environment to work in!!! Just curious, what type of work did you set your shop up for; that is to say, do you do general work on these machines or do you have a particular interest in something like steam engines or clockmaking?


      • #4
        Wow, that looks great! ...However... Way too much floor showing and way too clean for a shop.


        • #5
          Purpose for setting machining capabilities?
          I make metal/wood "artsy" furniture as a business/hobby. (I hope to make money at it but not yet). Started doing this after doing electrical engineering design for 25+ years. I have a large ring roller, bead roller, and English wheel and find that the die sets for either get kinda pricey, so I plan to make dies, both out of steel and delrin. I'm moving my style to more sculptural by shaping sheet metal with hammers, stumps, dollies, planishing hammers, and an English wheel. Lots of tooling needed for all of those plus I may eventually make my on planishing hammer.

          Is it cost effective? Probably not but it is something of interest and hoping it will break even. My wife approves as it contributes to my sanity and keeps me off of the streets

          In regards to the space and wood floors, yes it's a nice clean area. My small garage area below has my welders, saws, grinders, and my woodworking tools. I recently decided to expand upstairs with my "clean" work and keep the dirty work down below. I figured lathe/mill and sawdust not a good mix. The floors are covered with thick contractor cardboard floor protection and rubber stall mats. We'll see how clean it stays. lol
          Last edited by sru_tx; 11-07-2018, 11:23 AM.


          • #6
            I had never heard/read about this torsion beam idea so I went cruising the web to find out more. I like the concept and I can see how it will result in a lighter but still good support stand for the machine to hold it stiffly straight.

            I also see that the basic concept appears to call for the beam to be solidly fixed at one end but somewhat flexible on the other so that the stand can flex a little without putting any or very much torsion into the beam itself. Or that the cross arms on the ends that connect the central beam to the legs should be relatively small so it can flex to the degree needed. If the floor is fairly variable I think I'd prefer the intentional pivot idea. But for a decently sturdy building the flex in the more slender cross pieces should do nicely.

            And certainly from your results with test cuts and other measurements you're seeing the effects. It's amazing how "elastic" big pieces of metal really are when we start being concerned with fractions of a thousandth, eh?

            I can see this same idea of a torsion beam stand being an option for smaller lathes mounted on top of wood benches that shift and twist with seasonal humidity changes. Not only would it be a superb and stable mount but it would raise the machine up somewhat and be more operator friendly.
            Chilliwack BC, Canada


            • #7
              The need for dies for metal shaping as well as punching and forming is how I started with the machines. I did antique, classic and custom car restorations. First as a hobby while putting in 25+ years in the computer industry then for the last 20 years getting paid 25 cents an hour doing it for a living. Well, it seemed like 25 cents. I'm retired now (finally) and do it all at my leisure and pace. I still have all the tools and still enjoy making something out of raw materials. You just whittle away the extra, weld it, pound on it, shape it, sand it, paint it and then bingo, there's a car.

              Hope we see some of your metal work here. Some of these guys can't read so pictures are good.


              • #8
                That looks great. It looks like you put a lot of quality thought into that lathe mount. I see no reason why it would not work well.

                Enjoy your new shop. And don't worry about all that open floor; it will take care of itself.
                Paul A.
                SE Texas

                And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                You will find that it has discrete steps.


                • #9
                  nice job, and +1 on sharing pics of your work.
                  san jose, ca. usa


                  • #10
                    Nice job on the stand,I looked up specs on your lathe nice to see 1-1/2" spindle bore.I see so many with 1-7/16" that little extra is a real bonus.The previous lathe we had on the farm was also 1-1/2" ,I had it stuffed full numerous times as 1-1/2" shafting around farm is very common.You will have to post performance on the DC motor once you have some miles on it.