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Turnado freehand turning system

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  • Turnado freehand turning system

    Haven't seen this mentioned here, but it seems like a great idea worth sharing. Nothing is ever new of course, and Lorch offered a similar freehand tool (however, without the radius and fence fixturing options this brings to the table that substantially increases its utility), as well as the F'Only lathe.



    Seems to me that the tracing fence would make a great ersatz taper attachment, and if one were inclined, they could replace the metal template used on the tracer with laser cut acrylic, or a 3D printed template, to work some really crazy profiles.

  • #2
    Thats pretty neat!
    Feel free to put me on ignore....

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    • #3
      that's kind of neat, I've not seen it with the tool floating on a platform like that. Free hand turning is very common in small work, i.e. almost all work done on a watchmakers lathe for example. Done with a rest and graver. It works well scaled up. I recently duplicated a Schaublin tailstock lever using free hand turning from steel - round end tool bit held with vise grips with a large boring bar as a rest. It worked well.
      in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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      • #4
        Why is the drive so noisy ? Joint on the belt ? Maybe...

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        • #5
          Now THAT is VERY COOL! ! ! !

          I've done free hand turning on some aluminium but using a support bar off the tool post and a graver like tool similar to how clock makers do their work. It worked but at the larger scale was not all that great for good control. This floating tool post idea is way better.

          And really there's lots of hand controlled ball turning jigs that are not much different than this tool in terms of controlling the pressure of the cut. The hand through a short lever controls the cut while the pressure of the metal being removed is transmitted down into the carriage.

          If nothing else the platform with single peg and the finger jig off the holder would be lovely for simply ball turning. Less work to make than many of the ball turning jigs and more other uses as well. And with a bit of a tracer finger setup as suggested I could see making a lot of shaped profiles. The classic ball end handwheel being just one which is hard to do otherwise.

          I suspect that Eccentric Engineering's biggest problem is going to be that they are located in Australia and a lot of folks won't want to pay the shipping from there to them. Because when I look at the price of their basic table and cutter holder package at just $250A ($240Cdn, $180US) it's a pretty reasonable amount for the parts that are in the package vs the time to try to make such stuff. But I know it costs a bundle to ship anything over to them. And that would seem to be the case. Looking at their shipping rates it looks like it would add roughly another $70. I may be off but likely not by much.
          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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          • #6
            Freehand turning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEsSS5KwZ9E

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            • #7
              Excellent piece of kit!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
                That's a few years old now. So clearly not a brand new idea. At least now I won't feel quite as guilty for "borrowing" the concept....

                To be fair the stuff that Eccentric makes is darn nice! And some highly interesting ideas.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                • #9
                  Not a new idea at all, but I rather like the EE implementation of a pantograph tracer - it seems to me that you could even do some simple repetition turning tasks quite easily using such a tracer for example, and the idea certainly extrapolates to larger sizes.

                  I know I've certainly freehanded parts on the lathe before that I could have used this in stead, that probably would have gone a lot smoother. Things like big Nylatron rope guides and the like.

                  I mentioned in the OP the F'only lathe - for those unaware, here's a reference on it - certainly gives some interesting ideas:

                  http://www.lathes.co.uk/fonly/
                  http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/fonly/fonlypt1b.htm
                  http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/fonly/fonlypt2.htm

                  I agree on the shipping; our local post is horrendously expensive. He should probably get a US distributor.

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                  • #10
                    I got a question,
                    If I use it on my 7.5 hp lathe will it pull the tool in and take it for a ride if you cut too hard ?
                    I suspect on a lathe with fractional hp, that may not be an issue..

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                    • #11
                      I think you could fit a hydraulic tracer on your 7.5HP lathe and not have to worry about such toys.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 754 View Post
                        I got a question,
                        If I use it on my 7.5 hp lathe will it pull the tool in and take it for a ride if you cut too hard ?
                        I suspect on a lathe with fractional hp, that may not be an issue..
                        I wondered about that too, but their site says: "A zero rake angle on the top of the cutter combined with a small front clearance angle ensure the tool bit and tool post block will not be pulled into the workpiece. So long as the tool bit is not extended out beyond the area of the base the Toolpost cannot be tipped over, no matter how much downward pressure is applied."

                        Not sure if that's true in practice, but I don't recall ever having had a zero rake tool pull in.
                        Location: Northern WI

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 754 View Post
                          I got a question,
                          If I use it on my 7.5 hp lathe will it pull the tool in and take it for a ride if you cut too hard ?
                          I suspect on a lathe with fractional hp, that may not be an issue..
                          I "think" that if the cutting tool is kept with a flat top and if you use a limited side and nose rake angle to limit the maximum depth of cut that you should be OK.

                          I say this having done a few roundings of ends of rods I've made where I slip a round pin the size of the hole into my mill vise and then bring the arm up to the end mill and pull the arm around to round over the end of a handle or whatever concentric to the hole with the pin. It's amazingly controllable and actually quite easy even with a fairly heavy cut. Of course I do this so the metal turns into the end mill in the "conventional" direction. I'm not crazy enough to turn it into the cutter in the "climb milling" direction.

                          Sun God. Thanks so much for those links. I can see where an impromptu setup like that could do small model items in brass, aluminium, plastics and wood like a charm. And even small bits in steel.
                          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                          • #14
                            That is pretty cool. It might be possible to add an upper support that sandwiches the free-moving tool holder between it and the bottom surface. The tool could be moved around with an extender arm to keep fingers away from the work and cutting edge.
                            http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
                            Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
                            USA Maryland 21030

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                            • #15
                              Very neat!
                              Andy

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