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Differing amp readings from 2 meters!

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  • #31
    Most of the Amprobe meters, the old ones, at least, do not have any batteries for the current and voltage ranges.

    Some that include a continuity or resistance range have batteries. I have a newer Amprobe one that is a digital and has a battery, plus some older Amprobe and GE ones without.
    CNC machines only go through the motions.

    Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
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    • #32
      Wow, you guys are awesome with the interesting comments and suggestions. I'll try cleaning the jaws with some steel wool, but it's old school, no battery. This pic below is the model. FWIW, it has a lead for measuring continuity that has it's own battery holder inline.



      I have rarely used the clamp-on in any precision application, honestly it get used more as a rough voltmeter and occasional continuity tester. Those little non-contact AC probes have made it obsolete for what it did a lot of for years! So it's kinda hard to justify buying anything but a cheapie replacement, if that.

      As for my puzzle, somebody upthread gave me a good idea, that there was excess heat in the fusebox. I checked the breaker I had pulled, and sure enough, there was corrosion on the center contact! Now I'm thinking this type breaker is very sensitive to heat, and even less than 10A in a bad contact could cause enough heat to trip it. Tomorrow I throw the breaker in the basement and clean the contacts in the panel. Here's hoping....
      Last edited by gellfex; 01-21-2019, 11:01 PM.
      Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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      • #33
        Yes, if it is a thermal breaker than any corrosion on the contacts can cause heat and premature tripping.

        Corrosion is your enemy in any fuse/breaker box. At work one of our standard inspection techniques was to check the fuse/breaker boxes for any hot spots. Many electricians carry IR sensors so they can check things quickly and at a safe distance.

        Electricity plus heat = PROBLEM.
        Paul A.
        SE Texas

        And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
        You will find that it has discrete steps.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
          Electricity plus heat = PROBLEM.
          Especially for those folks heating their homes with electric ba$eboard$.

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          • #35
            How about just buying a glass fuse and scrap the screw in breaker all together.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Joe From NY View Post
              How about just buying a glass fuse and scrap the screw in breaker all together.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              You don't want to leave changing a glass fuse to a tenant, they might get creative like getting a 20A or such.
              Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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              • #37
                Originally posted by gellfex View Post
                You don't want to leave changing a glass fuse to a tenant, they might get creative like getting a 20A or such.
                Type "S" 15A fuse and a type "S" fuse adapter. Tenant won't be able to screw in a 20A.

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                • #38
                  So I just scraped and sanded the contacts of the breaker and panel, and put a dollop of dielectric grease on the breaker contact before screwing it in. Here's hoping! Confidence is high.
                  Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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