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    I was looking for a thread dial for a sb lathe and these showed up, is this for real? Yea I’m a hillbilly

  • #2
    Originally posted by Hubbard View Post
    I was looking for a thread dial for a sb lathe and these showed up, is this for real? Yea I’m a hillbilly
    -If I recall correctly, the dials for a Southbend, like those on a Sheldon and a Logan, are all part of the "lash" of the cross-slide leadscrew. That is, the dial acts kind of like a washer, that the handle/knob/wheel tightens against to reduce the amount of slop.

    I'm not sure I'd like a hunk of plastic there rather than aluminum or steel, especially if whoever printed it used a low infill (IE, it's not as solid as a single chunk of plastic) but that's just me. Generally speaking with positive-rake tooling, there's little thrust on the cross-slide screw anyway.

    If it's a matter of getting the machine up and running (IE, you don't currently HAVE a dial) then by all means give it a try. But again, if it were me, I'd only use it 'til a metal one can be located or made.

    Doc.
    Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Doc Nickel View Post
      -If I recall correctly, the dials for a Southbend, like those on a Sheldon and a Logan, are all part of the "lash" of the cross-slide leadscrew. That is, the dial acts kind of like a washer, that the handle/knob/wheel tightens against to reduce the amount of slop.

      I'm not sure I'd like a hunk of plastic there rather than aluminum or steel, especially if whoever printed it used a low infill (IE, it's not as solid as a single chunk of plastic) but that's just me. Generally speaking with positive-rake tooling, there's little thrust on the cross-slide screw anyway.

      If it's a matter of getting the machine up and running (IE, you don't currently HAVE a dial) then by all means give it a try. But again, if it were me, I'd only use it 'til a metal one can be located or made.

      Doc.
      Maybe I described it wrong.
      I mean the dial that you use when threading. It’s hooked to the main leadscrew

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      • #4
        Are you talking about this?





        I designed and printed this for my South Bend 9" lathe about 2 months ago, it is made from PETG and it is very tough. I used 100% infill, primed it in auto paint and painted in in the same oil based paint I used on my lathe. The rest of the parts are all machined of mild steel, I simply duplicated the factory dial on my other lathe. Actually the printed part is cleaner looking than the original by a wide margin.
        Mcruff
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Mcruff; 01-23-2019, 08:55 PM.

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        • #5
          I don't see any image, but if you mean the thread synchronizing dial, then a printed, plastic part should work just fine. There is little stress on it. In fact, even a plastic gear would be OK. It may even be better as it would produce less wear on the lead screw.

          I would use a piece of drill rod or actual shaft stock for the shaft.



          Originally posted by Hubbard View Post
          I was looking for a thread dial for a sb lathe and these showed up, is this for real? Yea I’m a hillbilly
          Paul Alciatore
          Senior Member
          Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 01-23-2019, 11:33 PM.
          Paul A.
          SE Texas

          And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
          You will find that it has discrete steps.

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          • #6
            I could use some new dials for my Grizzly, good idea!
            No pics are showing up for me?
            Fedora 29_64 running the latest chrome.
            Cheers,
            Jon

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            • #7
              Thanks guys, less stress is always good

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              • #8
                Grizzly sells the parts to make one for their modern 10k. They offered it as a kit until last summer. All steel or cast iron. Noteleactly like the old originals, but close
                Works on the old 9ABC and 10k
                About $60 shipped for everything

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