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  • Swivel eye?

    This pic was posted on another thread and got me to thinking I need to make something similar. My 13x40 lathe is currently sitting bass ackwards on it's base cabinets so I can find and fix an oil leak, and also install a DRO scale on the back side.


    Problem is my lathe is really top heavy and the first attempt at lifting showed an obvious need to do something to keep it from trying to roll over. I rigged it to fix that problem and got it raised enough to to spin it around so I could work on the back side. The pucker factor came into play because the lathe had to be pulled back far enough to clear the cabinet behind it while rotating on the crane's hook. I was worried that the ancient swivel shackle used might come apart and drop the machine. I won't lift the lathe again without a safer rigging system and a swivel that I can rely on.
    I like the method in the pic, but will add something to insure rollover will not happen. I have searched on line for swivel eyes or hooks and found prices ranging from a few bucks to hundreds. I need a new plan. Suggestions anyone?
    “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

    Lewis Grizzard

  • #2
    Looking at the picture, I can see an easy way to raise the lifting eye height. With longer vertical bolts, you could have much thicker pads between the channel section and the bed. This would bring the height of the eye well above the headstock and lower the COG.
    Don't forget, there are swivel hooks as well as eyes.

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    • #3
      Why not just drill and tap the ends of a piece of faced off 1 1/2 and extend the eye to the needed length ?

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      • #4
        When I need to move stuff like a lathe or mill I usually just use the pinch bar method. No extra drama needed.

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        • #5
          That would work well, any stiff extension to lower the COG with whatever is available is the way to go.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bandsawguy View Post
            When I need to move stuff like a lathe or mill I usually just use the pinch bar method. No extra drama needed.
            It would be rather hard to rotate the lathe relative to its base with a pinch bar

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            • #7
              This is the way I rig my Nardini to pick it up when I move it.



              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                Originally posted by true temper View Post
                This is the way I rig my Nardini to pick it up when I move it.



                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                This is the best way and probably safer and less stress on the lathe bed.
                Toolznthings

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Dave C View Post
                  This pic was posted on another thread and got me to thinking I need to make something similar. My 13x40 lathe is currently sitting bass ackwards on it's base cabinets so I can find and fix an oil leak, and also install a DRO scale on the back side.


                  Problem is my lathe is really top heavy and the first attempt at lifting showed an obvious need to do something to keep it from trying to roll over. I rigged it to fix that problem and got it raised enough to to spin it around so I could work on the back side. The pucker factor came into play because the lathe had to be pulled back far enough to clear the cabinet behind it while rotating on the crane's hook. I was worried that the ancient swivel shackle used might come apart and drop the machine. I won't lift the lathe again without a safer rigging system and a swivel that I can rely on.
                  I like the method in the pic, but will add something to insure rollover will not happen. I have searched on line for swivel eyes or hooks and found prices ranging from a few bucks to hundreds. I need a new plan. Suggestions anyone?
                  I would buy a new swivel shackle. If you buy a good quality one they have ratings for straight vertical lifting and offset lifting. Swivel shackles I believe are just in line pulling to be coupled in between chains. Hoist rings have vertical or straight and offset ratings.
                  You could also use a hoist ring.
                  A nylon sling will twist and you won't need any type of swivel coupling.

                  JL.....
                  Last edited by JoeLee; 02-13-2019, 08:23 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks to all for your ideas which are much appreciated. I don't know why I didn't think about using a sling, but that seems like the way to go.
                    “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

                    Lewis Grizzard

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                    • #11
                      Moving the eye higher will not change the center of gravity much unless you also change the point it is attached to. A large bar chucked up and tied to the lifting eye would move the center of gravity higher. Don't try to support any of the weight with the chuck, just prevent it from tipping.
                      North Central Arkansas

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                      • #12
                        One thing about the method shown is that you can find the exact placement on the bed for a straight-up lift- then mark it. I agree with getting the eye up higher. Perhaps the upper piece of channel could have some flat bar welded to it on each side, and they bend inwards, then up again where they touch. A hole through both at the top lets you use a hook- and perhaps then you upgrade to a swivel hook.
                        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ulav8r View Post
                          Moving the eye higher will not change the center of gravity much unless you also change the point it is attached to. A large bar chucked up and tied to the lifting eye would move the center of gravity higher. Don't try to support any of the weight with the chuck, just prevent it from tipping.
                          Use a 3/4 threaded rod 12 inches long. Trap it tightly with 2 nuts on the channel iron. atttach the eye with a coupling nut.This setup WILL keep it from tipping when lifting .If the lathe has a typical stupid Chinese design ,the motor might be hanging way out on the side of the headstock.In this case ,he should move the hole location in the channel back toward the rear splashguard.Once it is all balanced,there will be very little force trying to BEND the 3/4 rod. He is only going to lift and rotate the lathe ,not travel cross country.Edwin Dirnbeck
                          Last edited by Edwin Dirnbeck; 02-14-2019, 09:33 AM.

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                          • #14
                            If you use chain to lift you can probably rotate the lathe 180 deg. without needing a swivel hook.

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                            • #15
                              I have severaal different length and weight capacity slings for moving, assembling, and repositioning machinery. They are relatively cheap from HF. You could probably buy a couple for less than it would cost to make a lifting device:

                              https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...=lifting+sling

                              There are also some available from Northern Tool:

                              https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=lifting+sling

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