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  • Grinding Newbie Just Got A Surface Grinder

    I bought a grinder last week after some humming and hawing, and I've got a few ponderings that I've been struggling to find answers. I figure some folks around here have some experience with these smaller benchtop grinders.

    It is marked "GSG-612", made in Taiwan. Appears very similar to the Grizzly G5963 with the same oddball right hand table wheel. The grizzly says the stones mount to an arbor and a tapered spindle but my machine doesn't seem to have a way to get the end off. Not sure of theres a taper hiding in there or not.

    Also, the Grizzly manual says the table should move with "finger touch" or something to that effect. Mine is pretty heavy, the wheel definitely can't be thrown back and forth like some of the bigger machines on youtube seem to let you do.

    There is a one shot oiler but it doesn't appear to service the table balls, which seems to make sense. I'm not sure what kind of oil of grease should go in there, and what kind of resistance to movement is expected for the table? Or how often that needs to be done?

    Also, when would someone want magnetic transfer blocks for setup on the chuck vs. just using regular 123 blocks?

    Otherwise can't complain. Lots to learn. Can anyone recommend some grinding basics resources? Particularly good videos, webpages, books, etc.

    Thanks in advance.


    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Magnetic transfer blocks would be used if you needed to grind a surface on something where it may have a flange or some other protrusion that wouldn't allow it to be mounted directly to the chuck. An example would be say you wanted to grind the back or out side of a small piece of angle. You would need to raise it above the table in order to do so. So you would set it on the transfer block.
    They also come in handy for blocking things up etc.
    You can use 1-2-3 blocks if you can bolt your part to them, but they don't transfer magnetism.

    JL.................

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    • #3
      As someone in the same boat, good luck learning! I just picked up an old 6x18 last fall, still in the process of getting to know the machine. Theres a lot to learn, its not just moving the table. Youve also got to figure out speeds you move the table, stepovers between passes, cut depth, matching the wheel to the material, etc. That last one has been the hardest thing for me to overcome, theres not a lot of easily accessible literature to help match wheel material, bond and grade to a specific material that ive found.

      Still though, its all sorts of fun to learn, more so than a mill or lathe to me. Could be because i like watching sparks fly more than chips...

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      • #4
        That looks like the one Harbor Freight sold way back in the day.

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        • #5
          I have that same grinder, also made in Taiwan but badged MSC 612, and sold by MSC Industrial Supply. The Grizzly grinder referenced by the OP appears to be nearly identical but made in China. The Grizzly manual is good...much better than the one I finally found for mine.

          According to the Grizzly manual, the wheel sleeve should slide off of the tapered spindle with no more than a light tap on the end of the spindle...after removing the spindle nut, of course.

          The Grizzly manual does have an error in the section of grinding wheel choices, bottom of page 20: "CG Ceramic Grain" is not used for tungsten carbide. It is used on very hard steels such as high speed steel where its advantage is durability and longer time between dressings.

          Having a small surface grinder vastly increases the range of things you can do and make in the home shop. Just recently I needed a set of spacer washers of different thicknesses. So I put 20 steel washers on the magnetic chuck, ground one face flat, then flipped them all over and started grinding all of them. At each target thickness I removed a washer and labelled it, then continued grinding to the next target thickness. And on and on. No way I could ever have parted these off at the lathe and achieved this kind of tolerance.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by john hobdeclipe View Post
            I have that same grinder, also made in Taiwan but badged MSC 612, and sold by MSC Industrial Supply. The Grizzly grinder referenced by the OP appears to be nearly identical but made in China. The Grizzly manual is good...much better than the one I finally found for mine.

            According to the Grizzly manual, the wheel sleeve should slide off of the tapered spindle with no more than a light tap on the end of the spindle...after removing the spindle nut, of course.

            The Grizzly manual does have an error in the section of grinding wheel choices, bottom of page 20: "CG Ceramic Grain" is not used for tungsten carbide. It is used on very hard steels such as high speed steel where its advantage is durability and longer time between dressings.

            Having a small surface grinder vastly increases the range of things you can do and make in the home shop. Just recently I needed a set of spacer washers of different thicknesses. So I put 20 steel washers on the magnetic chuck, ground one face flat, then flipped them all over and started grinding all of them. At each target thickness I removed a washer and labelled it, then continued grinding to the next target thickness. And on and on. No way I could ever have parted these off at the lathe and achieved this kind of tolerance.
            I need to take a closer look at my spindle then, because I don't see a nut aside from the one that holds the wheel in place. I'll have to post a picture tonight because it seems different than I would expect if it was removable.

            Comment


            • #7
              Tormach's PSG-612 looks very similar, and they show a little more detail with changing wheels and removing the hub. They show sticking an allen key in the motor rear to hold the spindle still, didn't think of looking in there for something like that. I'll have to see what I see on my unit when I get home.

              https://www.tormach.com/support/wpdm...ual-0314a-web/

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              • #8
                The magnetic table should have a small adjustable stop added to the left hand end for safety.

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                • #9
                  The table should go super easy in X and Y. If the oiler is not oiling ALL the ways, something is clogged up and needs to be opened to allow oil to pass through. Use an indicator to make sure the back gage on the mag chuck is adjusted to be exactly parallel to the X axis table travel. Use a diamond nib in a block on the mag chuck to dress the wheel.
                  Kansas City area

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Toolguy View Post
                    The table should go super easy in X and Y. If the oiler is not oiling ALL the ways, something is clogged up and needs to be opened to allow oil to pass through. Use an indicator to make sure the back gage on the mag chuck is adjusted to be exactly parallel to the X axis table travel. Use a diamond nib in a block on the mag chuck to dress the wheel.
                    I wouldn't describe the table as moving super easy. I think its probably worth the effort to remove the table and inspect the condition. The oiler system doesn't seem to feed the table, as I don't see a oiler tube leading to under there.

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                    • #11
                      Yes, I would remove the table and inspect. Every axis needs lube, whether plain or roller bearing.
                      Kansas City area

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                      • #12
                        Well, the balls are pretty dry and one is missing. The oiler system doesn't provide any oil to it.

                        Also it looks like the spindle has a fixed hub, no taper or removable wheel holder so no external balancing.

                        Going to clean it up and put some way oil in, see if it feels nicer.

                        Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          Your third pic shows the wheel sleeve, held onto the spindle taper by the hex head screw in the center. The screw is reverse thread. At the back of the motor there should be a bit of spindle protruding that can be gripped with a wrench.. Hold that, then unscrew the hex at the business end and the wheel sleeve should come off.

                          According to the Grizzly manual the sleeve should come off of the spindle with a few taps on the end of the spindle, but you'll actually need to loosen the screw a couple of turns and tap on that. I tried that on mine, though, and no joy. I'll need to devise a puller. Look closely: the sleeve has female threads to accept the puller, although I haven't seen a puller shown or mentioned in any of the manuals that have been mentioned here.

                          Taper mount interchangeable grinding wheel sleeves or adapters are pretty much a standard feature on surface grinders.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by john hobdeclipe View Post
                            Your third pic shows the wheel sleeve, held onto the spindle taper by the hex head screw in the center. The screw is reverse thread. At the back of the motor there should be a bit of spindle protruding that can be gripped with a wrench.. Hold that, then unscrew the hex at the business end and the wheel sleeve should come off.

                            According to the Grizzly manual the sleeve should come off of the spindle with a few taps on the end of the spindle, but you'll actually need to loosen the screw a couple of turns and tap on that. I tried that on mine, though, and no joy. I'll need to devise a puller. Look closely: the sleeve has female threads to accept the puller, although I haven't seen a puller shown or mentioned in any of the manuals that have been mentioned here.

                            Taper mount interchangeable grinding wheel sleeves or adapters are pretty much a standard feature on surface grinders.
                            The fan cover blocks two flats I can see on the motor end of the shaft, so I'll have to pull the cover off and give it a try. Silly manufacturer.

                            I figure a gear puller might work if I use it to grab the wheel nut.

                            Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              That thing is cute. Looks like a great size, and capability for a home shop.

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