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Bought a Used Albrecht Chuck

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  • old mart
    replied
    I know how: don't run it in reverse. My keyless Kawasaki chucks will rum in either direction of course.

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  • Lew Hartswick
    replied
    Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
    Anyone that can't figure out how to use a Albrecht chuck should maybe take up knitting.

    Brian
    Absolutely . Such should not be allowed to own any precision tooling. :-)
    ...lew...

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  • Tungsten dipper
    replied
    Thanks for the replies!
    Bought a Shars R8-JT6 collet (23 bucks with shipping) it has .0007 run-out and with the used Albrecht Chuck, holding a gage pin it has a total run-out of .001.2.

    Leave a comment:


  • rklopp
    replied
    Originally posted by Doozer View Post
    Most people use ER collet holders for holding drill bits in CNC machines.
    They have a backstop to hold the Z in place.
    An Albrecht chuck is totally variable where the tool is in the Z.

    -Doozer
    Obviously your mileage varies from mine. Besides, “most people” don’t run machine tools.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • bborr01
    replied
    Anyone that can't figure out how to use a Albrecht chuck should maybe take up knitting.

    Brian

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  • DR
    replied
    I recently sold my two Albrecht 1/2" chucks because I got tired of the hassle of loosening them when they self tightened beyond hand force under heavy load. Out of frustration there was always the temptation to use a pipe wrench.

    And there was the issue if them loosening under reverse rotation if used to hold a tap.

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  • old mart
    replied
    My Cutwell 1/2", 13mm with integral R8 shank looks exactly like the Shars chucks, probably made in the same factory. Mine has 0.0015" tir which is good enough for me.

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  • Doozer
    replied
    As a side note to this thread...
    I have bought a few (3) of the Shars brand keyless chucks.
    Their premium line that is about $55 to $85 depending on
    if you get it with the shank or not. Anyhow, I am super pleased
    with them. I have one with the separate shank on my Jig Borer
    and I get half a thou of runout. I a super pleased with that.
    So go ahead and flame Doozer for buying import tooling.
    I am very selective about what I buy on the cheap.
    But I was not going to pay $300+ for a German Albrecht chuck.
    I just thought I would pass on my good experience with Shars
    keyless chucks.

    -Doozer

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  • Doozer
    replied
    Originally posted by rklopp View Post
    Interesting. I usually butt the drill all the way in so I don’t lose my Z offset when drilling on the CNCs.

    Most people use ER collet holders for holding drill bits in CNC machines.
    They have a backstop to hold the Z in place.
    An Albrecht chuck is totally variable where the tool is in the Z.

    -Doozer

    Leave a comment:


  • rklopp
    replied
    Originally posted by cc2 View Post
    Another tip I read.

    Do not put the drill bit all the way up into the Chuck.
    Interesting. I usually butt the drill all the way in so I don’t lose my Z offset when drilling on the CNCs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • cc2
    replied
    Another tip I read.

    Do not put the drill bit all the way up into the Chuck.

    Leave a comment:


  • old mart
    replied
    They don't all have the collar, even in Morse taper: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/tool-holdin...al-drill-chuck
    I have an Albrecht 0-10mm and a Porta 2-16mm with the collar also.

    Leave a comment:


  • cameron
    replied
    Originally posted by Hopefuldave View Post
    left hand on the chuck, index and middle fingers wrapped around the hood, ring and pinky around the drill, start/stop the spindle - but I have hands like leather. Old boot leather.

    Dave H. (the other one)
    Yes, of course, but if you're using a keyed chuck, you have the key in your other hand ready to use, don't you?

    And if someone with more delicate hands doesn't care to start the spindle, he still has the thumb and forefinger of the hand holding the drill to snug up the chuck. Either way, it seems more natural and slightly quicker to use the other hand for the key, if the hand is not needed to hold the work on the table.

    So, normally a two-handed operation, with keyed or keyless chuck.
    Last edited by cameron; 04-14-2019, 01:08 PM.

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  • Hopefuldave
    replied
    Originally posted by cameron View Post
    One for the drill, one for the collar, and one to tighten? That's three hands!

    If it takes you three hands for a keyless chuck, I'd like to know how you manage with one hand for a keyed chuck.It can be done,of course, but if you have a second hand you might as well use it. It is easier and faster.
    left hand on the chuck, index and middle fingers wrapped around the hood, ring and pinky around the drill, start/stop the spindle - but I have hands like leather. Old boot leather.

    Dave H. (the other one)

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  • cameron
    replied
    Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
    The purpose of the collar? Wouldn't that be to hold it still while tightening and opening it? Keyless chucks are a two hand operation. That's one of the reasons why I don't use them. One hand to hold the drill, one to hold the collar, and one to tighten it. OK on a hand drill, but in a drill press or mill.....
    One for the drill, one for the collar, and one to tighten? That's three hands!

    If it takes you three hands for a keyless chuck, I'd like to know how you manage with one hand for a keyed chuck.It can be done,of course, but if you have a second hand you might as well use it. It is easier and faster.

    Leave a comment:

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