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Your experience with 6 inch Chinese rotary tables.

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  • Your experience with 6 inch Chinese rotary tables.

    Recommend or No?
    looking for something for work for those one off jobs.
    I mostly work in tool steel and stainless.
    Thanks guys.

  • #2
    My first vote would be Vertex, made in Taiwan (ROC). I have an 8 inch one, and it's very good quality. Second would be Phase II. They seem to be the best of the cheap Chinese tools, from my experience. I have various Phase II tools, but no rotary table.

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    • #3
      Mine is still in the box, looks decent though. I might put a stepper on it and make a control interface. My main goal is to use it for making gears.
      I bought it before I went on my anti China kick. From what I've seen, Taiwan is considerably better for everything.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        I have an 8" table and it is fine for what I do. If you run an indicator all over it check centre alignment against rotational alignment etc. then you might be run up against the Chinese quality wall. Overall the rotation is smooth without noticeable backlash. Stephan Gotteswinter (you Tube) did a video on improving his Chinese made table and shows the plus's and minus's of them. He can be a bit over the top on accuracy and your needs may vary. They are your only choice unless you can find a good old iron table kicking around. Be aware that the old 'Merican ones where not always perfect either.
        The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

        Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

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        • #5
          I have this model:
          Grizzly-4-Rotary-Table-w-Indexing H5940
          It's been GREAT! I use it with a 4" chuck mounted to the faceplate, and I've used it for Gear cutting, milling shafts, hexes, etc.
          I've never had any negative issues with it.

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          • #6
            Another vote for Taiwan made options. I've got a 6" "Yiyen" by Tzu Yen Industries. I got it around 20 to 25 years ago and it's been a great performer for the couple of dozen times I've had it up on the mill.

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            • #7
              I have an 8" table (from Taiwan I think) and have always been happy with it, except when carrying it around the shop. I'd have to check the brand, don't remember at the moment and hate to give bad info.

              Some tables are only intended to lay flat, and some can be used flat or on end. I do recommend spending the extra $$ for the type that can work on end, even though most of the time you'll probably use it flat.

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              • #8
                I like Japanese, Yuasa. Taiwan is a second best. JR
                My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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                • #9
                  I have a 10" from Grizzly and it does what I wanted, which so far has been mostly bolt/hole circles. I used it to drill 60 indexing holes in my three jaw back plate so I can index in the lathe. The fit and finish is good. The operation is smooth. The dial and Vernier are easy to read.

                  I have not attempted to run any accuracy checks on it. Angular accuracy? Table flatness? Table parallel to bottom of base? Accuracy of 90 degree angle when mounted on edge? Table run out? Etc. The spec sheet that came with it claims +/- 30 second accuracy. The Vernier scale reads to 10 seconds.
                  Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 08-16-2019, 03:23 PM.
                  Paul A.

                  Make it fit.
                  You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JRouche View Post
                    I like Japanese, Yuasa. Taiwan is a second best. JR
                    Yuasa's are made in Taiwan, if I am not mistaken.

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                    • #11
                      I have an older Yantai 8" that is horizontal and vertical. I can't find anything to complain about other than the oval bolt slots for the vertical position don't match the the spacing of my BP table T slots. One of these days I'll open the up a little. I put an 8" Bison 3 jaw on it. I've done some pretty accurate work with it.




                      You can see in this picture where I have to use a clamp to secure it to the table, and even that's a PIA to try and get at with the chuck mounted.




                      JL...............
                      Last edited by JoeLee; 08-16-2019, 10:33 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by loose nut View Post
                        I have an 8" table and it is fine for what I do. If you run an indicator all over it check centre alignment against rotational alignment etc. then you might be run up against the Chinese quality wall. Overall the rotation is smooth without noticeable backlash. Stephan Gotteswinter (you Tube) did a video on improving his Chinese made table and shows the plus's and minus's of them. He can be a bit over the top on accuracy and your needs may vary. They are your only choice unless you can find a good old iron table kicking around. Be aware that the old 'Merican ones where not always perfect either.
                        With the Youtubers that go into great lengths to ensure accuracy, I've found my own skills have exponentially increased by mimicking what they do. I'm going to go find his video and watch it.

                        Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          My first rotab was a Wholesale Tool 6 inch. I was turning a 12 inch wheel center (had to weld it up to make it 12.25 dia) on the rotab with a large roughing endmill in the spindle while rotating the rotab (my lathe swing dia is 12.2 inches w/o locally grinding a divot into the lathe bed (partially into the tailstock way) - not that the tailstock would ever be that close to the chuck - I just did not want to be that much of a hack so I used the mill and rotab). I ended up shearing teeth on the ring gear in the rotab. Had I used a less aggressive cut, maybe roughed in the shape with a hand grinder before machining the rotab probably would have survived. Finished turning the wheel center at work during my lunch time (with the blessing of the guys in the machine/fab shop) on a 20 inch swing lathe - I've never operated a lathe that big and the pucker facter was high!

                          Now I have a PhaseII 6 inch rotab but have not had need to abuse it like I did the Wholesale Tool rotab. I still have the damaged rotab - figured I might make some sort of a tool out of it someday (4 yrs later still have not figured out what I might use it for).

                          For my needs an 8 inch rotab would probably be more durable but with a 6 inch 3-jaw attached to the 6 inch rotab, its at the weight limit that I can comfortably lift.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Joel View Post
                            Yuasa's are made in Taiwan, if I am not mistaken.
                            Yes, the newer ones are. The older ones are Japan. The lables are diff and other things like the dial and oilers. Both pretty good. I do prefer the Japan tables.







                            Another Japanese make is "News". Identical to the Yausa.

                            My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                            https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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                            • #15
                              Thanks every one for your input. Until time runs out I'll shop the used market. You've all been very helpful.

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