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  • #16
    Hard to tell from your photos, John, but it occured to me that if you could hang a chain from the ceiling above the lathe, where it would hang centered over the bed, that could be used to hold up the outboard end of the beam in your drawing. Then you don't have to have outrigger legs, or whatever, on your narrow truck. Hang a length of chain over any machine where you would be bringing a heavy item, and have the lowest link high, but still easily reachable with a short segment of chain from the beam. That way they would not be in the way. (hopefully). You get to keep your truck narrow and easily manouverable in the shop.
    You said detachable upright, you could instead also make a separate leg with a section of channel welded on top that the beam would sit in. One bolt through a hole keeps the pieces together for safety, keeps the leg vertical in one direction, and a 'T' across the bottom of the leg can be the foot, keeping it vertical in the other direction. Suitable castors on the 'T' would allow you to push it around assembled when picking up or positioning heavy stuff. Portable gantry that can be set up anywhere, and taken apart without tools for storage.
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


    • #17
      Weird, we BOUGHT a commercial one of those for not a lot of money. Lifts 1000 lb, we use it to lift speaker cabinets up for TEF testing.

      Lifts 9 or 10 feet, IIRC.

      It looks just like that one, though.
      1601 2137 5683 1002 1437

      Keep eye on ball.
      Hashim Khan

      If you look closely at a digital signal, you find out it is really analog......


      • #18
        Just wondering....where do the chips go?


        • #19
          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JPR:

          I would have a concern on building tool in your sketch. When the load is at the end of the beam, you would need significant counter balance.</font>
          John has an adequate load of counterbalance available in the shop - there's a Bridgeport and the CNC mill just across from the big lathe. Perhaps in addition to the "detachable upright" that John has drawn there should be an telescoping jib that can swivel and extend away from the load to counterbalance and rest under the knee of either mill. The knee can of course be adjusted to suit the height of the jib.


          [This message has been edited by Charles Ping (edited 10-01-2004).]


          • #20
            Just back from climbing around the hills here. Why not just build a gantry crane supported on A frames with wheels on the floor. Make it long enough to go across from behind the lathe to behind the bridgy. The A frames would not have to have a very big foot print and once in position probably wouldn't move far Turn some wheels up out of steel, they wouldn't need to swivel. Make the A frames out of RHS, a suitable beam, trolly and chain block. Wouldn't take long to build, not a lot in materials and as safe as.


            • #21
              Thanks guys for the input.
              Some replies:-

              First off the roof cannot take any load at all, it's virtually flat only about 10 degrees slope and tar sheeted, we don't have a wind problem here and snow is limited to only a few inches per year, so this cancells out any support for the roof.
              I can support off the wall at the far end and that was where the over head beam was going to go in the sketch.

              Nothing can go behind the lathe without moving it off the wall some more as the cross slide only just misses the wall when right in.

              I have a jib crane but I can't use it even if I could get one in as there is no room under the lathe to allow the legs.

              Neil has come up with the idea I was going to run with to start as it's the simpler one, hence quicker.
              A dolly that can raise would be nice in keping the C of G down but will cost in time to buid and the elevating mechanism could make this wobbly .
              I have plenty of 4" box section spare so I can make a substantional frame.
              I am not bothered about loading the bridy as it has it's own crane mounted on the shaper swivel at the back.
              I have used this in the past to lift rotors up and then drop them on two planks between the bridgy bed and the lathe.
              this is fine for rotors weighing about 250# but no way will it lift 1/2 ton rotors.

              It's this 1/2 ton target that has me liking the dolly with the beam over.
              Rolling a smallish rotor is Ok but it one of the big ones got away it would be dangerous.
              At least connected to chain falls you have some control.

              The motor rewind peole are dropping a big scrap rotor off early next week so I have something to play with, I have also rung a couple of scrappies and asked for some heavy castors.

              I have a truck more or less exactly what you have drawn at the moment, mine has a platform instead of forks and it's hydraulic.
              That the method I use at the moment but I have to strap the rotor to the frame and wheel it in and it sits parallel to the lathe, there is no room to turn it to face the lathe and the legs can't go under.
              Because it's sideways the rotor is 90 degrees to the bed so it has to twist as it rolls off the truck which adds to the pucker factor.

              I am not bothered about loading the bridy as it has it's own crane mounted on the shaper swivel at the back.
              I have used this in the past to lift rotors up and then drop them on two planks between the bridgy bed and the lathe.
              this is fine for rotors weighing about 250# but no way will it lift 1/2 ton rotors.

              Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


              • #22
                Hi John,
                I have a couple of these (got them at a bargain in an auction).

                and they are very handy in crowded quarters and handle 750 pounds nicely. I have used them together to unload a 1400 # crate from a freight truck, got the crate on both, truck pulls up a bit, safely lower and roll in the shop. I have many different hydraulic and winch operated lift devices to save my back from further damage. It is not recommended that you move this with the load raised but exercising caution I have used the method of raising and rolling "very slowly" to avoid tight spots in the pathway or getting long objects thru doors. You can turn in a real tight circle with them. For loading the motor armature in the lathe I see it getting you to the lathe (30" is plenty of room) fine, turn slowly 90 degrees, lift to clear the carriage height plus a ramp (3/16" steel plate with masonite or rubber belting on both sides. With the cart into the lathe as far as possible block the wheels and lash it to the lathe tight at the lowest point possible. The leading edge of the platform has a slight brake ~ 1.5" back from the front edge. I work alone as I think you might so I take a few extra steps to keep on top of things - I think you know what I mean. I can't tell from the photo how far the Cof G of the cart is from your lathe bed center. Anyway I bolt the plate to the cart 2 bolts 5/16 Allen button head - strip of belting to cover them. I haven't put 600 pounds up so you would be the better judge of wither you put 1, 2 or 3 Oak or Ash 4X4's under the plate to get you up over the carriage plus stiff enough to jack from and I bolt a stop block across the plate to hold the armature from rolling too far. Lift height is given here I think 4'.

                I think you have to open the catalog page to get the spec's. in pdf format here. Page 3.

                Certainly want it to be at rest about midpoint between the ways. I don't know if you want to jack from a point beside the plate or off the plate surface. Wish I had a better idea how far the center lines are apart. Remember too that as soon as you start raising it the stop blocks are out of the picture. I took the lower pan out from between the cabinets supporting my lathe so I can set and block the load then come in above the load and strap it up tight to the bottom side of the platform. Nylon ratchet strap across the platform and around the shaft on each end. The nylon gives me a little wiggle room for aligning.

                Well these are my ramblings of how I might proceed please don't take them for anything more but I do hope there is something here that can be useful. Just be careful however you setup to do the job. Steve

                I checked, this lift goes to 54" high.

                [This message has been edited by Steve Stube (edited 10-01-2004).]


                • #23
                  Hmm, lost me. You will have to post a picture of your creation when done John.

                  I liked the bit about painting it green and vanishing into ether though, classic


                  • #24
                    John,whoops,missed the oil tank under the lathe.
                    Guess what I would do then for a permanet solution would be to hang some steel just under the ceiling on its own legs,you wouldn't need much for the hoist just some 4"I-beam and 2x2" square tube columns.

                    The good thing about lathes is you don't need more height under the hook than the lathe has swing since nothing bigger will fit in the machine anyway.
                    I just need one more tool,just one!


                    • #25
                      I have used Forrest's idea of a tall saw horse for lifting a ton or so for many years. Mine just clears my walkout basement celing and is a take apart 4' wide unit that can be easily slid over my machines. I have lifted 5 heavy machines, my J head Bridgeport being the largest at one ton. I have not needed to take it apart since I can park it over one machine or another. After I lift a machine to move I place it on my old Yale 2 ton pallet truck and easily move it. In addition I use the pallet truck to park under my I beam outside my 5' swing out patio door so I can back up a truck or trailer under it in order to to lift machines, place them on the truck and pull them into my basement.


                      • #26
                        Jib Crane. Shop Built. 3-4 in diameter uprights lagged to concrete block wall behind lathe. Extended arms/feet on floor at ends of oil tank. A brace or 2 bolted to the lathe would be helpful. A beam or 2 heavy tubes connecting the uprights to support the jib pivot. About a 5 foot jib with a 1/2 ton chainfall. The pivot should be about 3 feet to the right of the chuck face.

                        It was quite obvious that there is not enough floor space for a rolling gantry or a standard jib. John is not kidding very much when he asks what a floor is.
                        North Central Arkansas


                        • #27

                          HUH, won't this work? We used to always cut a hole in the ceiling and call in a crane.

                          [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 10-01-2004).]


                          • #28

                            David Cofer, Of:
                            Tunnel Hill, North Georgia

                            [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 10-01-2004).]


                            • #29
                              John,I have seen some of the pro stock racers use sonething similar to what you are looking for to remove the engines from the cars. They have a pocket mounted on the wall of their trailer that will accept an I beam and lock into place with a pin. I think the beam was aluminum. The other end of the beam want to a leg structure outside the trailer. They had a small electric hoist mounted on the I beam via a trolley so they could lift and roll the engine from the car outside the trailer to the inside of the trailer. The hoist and trolley didn't take up much room overhead IIRC about 8 to 10". The hoist was rated for 1000 pounds and the beam was about 12 feet long, longer than you need. The engine was moved into position on a wheeled cradle which is like your stand to support the rotor.

                              I also have a boom that attaches to a forktruck. It is rated for 250 lbs but may be good for some ideas. See pictures.



                              • #30

                                At work they talked about buying a heavy duty cart with a crane for lifting and moving mold cavities and cores. Your idea reminds of that. I tried to do a search for it. No luck but i did find this. Half way down is a rotatable shop crane. Something like that on a smaller scale might do the job.


                                We do have a die cart like several people have shown. They are handy especially as a portable, height adjustable worktable but do have a nasty habit of rolling away as you slide the part off.

                                [This message has been edited by moldmonkey (edited 10-01-2004).]
                                Jon Bohlander
                                My PM Blog