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R8 face mill project

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  • R8 face mill project

    Hi,
    I had posted some time back asking for R8 shank specs for a school machine shop project. Thanks for the help. Some one had asked me to post a picture of it when I got it done, so here it is. I've used it and it works great. 4 indexable inserts and 2 inch diameter.<img src="http://members.aol.com/boda65/r8mill.jpg">

  • #2
    Verrry nice.

    ------------------
    Paul G.
    Paul G.

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    • #3
      Lets try that again.

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      • #4
        SUPER!!!
        hms

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        • #5
          Yes, that looks very nice!

          Not sure what or if you have anything planned for surface, but Black Oxide makes a nice finish for tooling. It doesn't add to the metal condition. Hope you don't mind me adding that, actually it looks fine as it is too.

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          • #6
            <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Peter S:
            Yes, that looks very nice!

            Not sure what or if you have anything planned for surface, but Black Oxide makes a nice finish for tooling. It doesn't add to the metal condition. Hope you don't mind me adding that, actually it looks fine as it is too.
            </font>
            No, I'm always open to ideas/suggestions. Thanks for the input. Is Black Oxide hard to apply? I was thinking of getting cold gun blueing. I hear it takes a number of coats with fine steel wool in between but produces a nice finish if you take the time.

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            • #7
              Nice job.

              Cold blue is easier to apply in the home shop. Degrease with strong detergent, and apply several coats, steel wooling between until desired color is attained.
              Jim H.

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              • #8
                That is nice. Does the step between the R8 taper and the head mean the head comes off?

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                • #9
                  I don't know how to Black Oxide. It works best if kept lightly oiled or wax spray. We send out alot of parts to a commercial outfit that does it. I think it is a straight forward chemical process, not expensive. You may be able to extract details from someone who does this type of thing. The guy we use does many different finishes, Ferrophos, Parkerising (zinc phosphate), Manganese phosphate, Molybond. The above are all chemical coatings, not electroplated, but all "add" to the surface, ie build-up. Thats why Black Oxide is used on tooling, no build-up. Looks good too!

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                  • #10
                    Very nice work! Submit it to HSM or MW.

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                    • #11
                      planerguy:
                      Exceptional for a first try! Very nice. Pat yourself on the back. Cold bluing works better if you get the metal to 150* or so (hot water works just fine) I find this takes less work to get a better finish than appling to cold metal.

                      Did you include any forward or back rake angles or did you leave it at 90*? Did you manage to get all the cutting tips in the same plane - this would affect your surface finish. Any pictures of the cuts?

                      Again, nice work - keep it up.

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                      • #12
                        <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Uncle Dunc:
                        That is nice. Does the step between the R8 taper and the head mean the head comes off?</font>

                        It is all one piece. It is a scrap from work (4140 pre-hardened to 28-32 Rc) The step is where I turned the large diameter of the taper before turning the taper. This was done on a Nardini manual lathe and a Clausing/Kondia bridgeport clone mill and a chinese copy of a Brown and Sharp dividing head. By the way, this is an adult ed. class, I'm not a high school student FYI. Thanks for the complements, I'm blushing.

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                        • #13
                          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Thrud:
                          planerguy:
                          Exceptional for a first try! Very nice. Pat yourself on the back. Cold bluing works better if you get the metal to 150* or so (hot water works just fine) I find this takes less work to get a better finish than appling to cold metal.

                          Did you include any forward or back rake angles or did you leave it at 90*? Did you manage to get all the cutting tips in the same plane - this would affect your surface finish. Any pictures of the cuts?

                          Again, nice work - keep it up.
                          </font>
                          No rake. The teacher had me copy a similar cutter he had. It is from an inexpensive 3 piece set he ordered from Travers. Only he wanted me to make it 4 flute. It didn't have any rake,either. I did cut some relief behind each insert to make sure it didn't hit.I indicated the vertical edge and at first had about .002 runout. I spent some time with a tiny file and got it to within .0005. Which could change with different inserts. (TPG-322) Sorry, I didn't take any pics of the cutting.

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                          • #14
                            NICE JOB!!!! LOOKS SO GOOD I WANT TO MAKE ONE. ANY PRINTS ON THIS
                            THANKS
                            EGG

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