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pump in gas tank

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  • pump in gas tank

    After putting some gasoline in my 1989 Sable it wouldn't start--found out bad in-tank pump. Got a 1992 Taurus now, any one have an idea what I could do to get car home if in-tank pump fails on this car? thanks Paul

  • #2
    Call tow truck.
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    • #3
      Sometimes you can get the pump to run by banging on the fuel tank while the switch is on... if that works, Don't turn off the engine until you get the car to where you want it.



      • #4
        On the starter solinoid which is mounted
        on the left side of the engine compartment
        you will notice two small terminals one actuates the solinoid and the other terminal sends 12 volts directly to the fuel pump in the tank only when the engine is cranking. ( this terminal used to be used as a ignition bypass but no longer)
        After the engine starts and is no longer being cranked 9 volts is fed to the pump in the tank through a resistance wire. If you
        jumper between battery terminal on the solinoid to this terminal that normally feeds 12 volts when cranking only you will
        be able to run the pump on 12 volts long enough to get you home.This gives the pump
        25% more voltage. This has worked many times for me.Remove the jumper when you shut it off.


        • #5
          Don't laugh, and this is certainly no recomendation, but many years ago (25?) a friend had his new car stall in the Boonies ,for the same reason..and he had to get home. since I worked nearby, I looked at the situation on his car (Chevette I think ?) and duct taped the gas tank filler pipe with a small tube..blew into the tank and clamped the tube shut, and there was enough presure ( one PSI ?)to pump to the carb..
          Don't know what would work with a injector however..


          • #6
            I know it's not a short term solution, but I would suggest getting an external fuel pump and putting it inline. Sometimes you can get them so you dont even have to remove the old fuel pump (depending on the vehicle).

            We have a van that has the in-tank fuel pump fail every two years. It's got a lifetime guarantee, but it's still a bitch. Next time it happens it's getting an external.




            • #7
              I`ll opt for an external over an internal every time!
              Injection is great but carbs and points are more user friendly.


              • #8
                Carbs and points... Yep. About twenty years ago I was about two miles out in the back bush behind my house with my 59 Land Rover when the stroke actuated fuel pump quit. I walked back to the house and took a one litre can with a small screw on cap and soldered in a bit of 1/4" copper tubing to the cap. Grabbed some fuel line hose, some hose clamps and a gas can. Walked back to the vehicle and hooked the litre can full of gas to the carb with a short length of fuel hose and hung it from the open hood to gravity feed the carb. Worked fine, got back.
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                • #9

                  The best solution is to replace the pump now. That will also give you a chance to check the tank. They rust around the welds and the vsender/fuel pump hole (on the outside). If it isn't pitted, primer can extend the life of the seams and rubs. It's part of the job around here. Remember the tank isn't very thick to start with.

                  Tanks are relatively cheap. Straps are also available. Put a folded over strip of tar paper (15# felt) between the tank, straps, and contact areas on car.

                  Check the dealer price on the pump assy, as the after market unit MAY be re-boxed and more expensive.

                  As for a conversion, external pumps are generally fed by a low pressure internal pump. Also, the in tank unit on your Ford won't allow fuel to be sucked from the fuel line. If it did, changing the fuel filter could empty the tank. As it is, just enough gas comes out to soften some of the dried grease that accumulates in the bay.

                  Milage almost always varies, but if you're much over 100k on the original, don't expect me to go for a long ride on a cold night.

                  Don't forget to take the old one apart, unless you're not the curious type.

                  Bill Cook
                  Certified Master Mechanic

                  If ya wannit done your way ya gotta do it yourself.


                  • #10
                    I bet Sabb would rather you throw away the whole car and just buy a new one.

                    Aint technology great! My old S-10 had an internal pump. The tank was under the bed. Bolts were all rusty and the tank straps would have ripped if I tried to get it out. So, I measured twice and cut a little door in the bed and replaced it from the top. The fellow I sold it to bitched about what I had done. I told him if he didnt like it, dont buy it. He bought it anyway, and I saw him about 2 months back. He thanked me for the hole when HE had to change the pump!

                    [This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 11-20-2004).]
                    Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.


                    • #11
                      did you check the safty switch in the trunk?


                      • #12

                        What Bill Cook says: Replace pump at 100,000 miles.

                        Prior to leaving on xcountry trip, I replaced pump in wife's 100K mi Tbird. 50K mi later, car belly's up between Needles and Amboy, CA. WalMart driver Judy stops to offer cellphone, no service, wife and I hop in her tractor/trailer loaded with 45K lbs of dog food bound for LA. Long story short, over 600 bux spent for new fuel pump and tow home. Local mechanic: Never buy offbrand pump, spend heavy for quality stuff good for 100K mi. Finally home, traced problem to bad pressure regulator.

                        Upside: WalMart driver Judy said company policy is to provide roadside assistance, unless the situation is deemed unsafe. The desert tow driver did not like the color of my credit card, so Judy offered and paid for initial tow with her personal Triple A card. It provided her with free roadside assistance that she had never used.

                        Them WalMart Arkies are good people---



                        • #13
                          Had an in-tank pump fail on a Toyota one time and learned the hard way that the fuel computer drives the injectors harder to compensate for the fading pump pressure. Some engineer didn't know to put suppression diodes on the injector driver transistors, so the fuel computer is guaranteed to die whenever the fuel pump does.

                          I'm waiting for a good electric car.

                          Greg C.


                          • #14
                            Yep... That's engineered distruction. Same with the air bag module in Fords. When the clock spring goes, it usually shorts the module (code 31/32) then burns the thermal fuse (code 51). Cost of just the parts? About $240.

                            I do the fixes for the modules to save customers about $100+ but the clock spring is seldom repairable (a few are). They use a gooey silicon paste that later turns to sticky gum. This causes the winding to jam and buckle the ribbon cable. The insulation separates from the copper and they make contact.

                            Forgot to add:
                            NEVER run a vehicle with an in-tank pump lower than 1/4 full. That's a garanteed death sentence for the pump. The pump needs the fuel to keep cool.

                            [This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 11-20-2004).]


                            • #15
                              Thanks for the many suggestions. It cost me $100.00 to replace the in tank pump plus I had to buy a new filter to get the one year guarantee. I'm going to look up the pressure the in tank pump puts out and do a little more research. When that pump goes there's no plan B! Any more ideas? Paul