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Fuel pump Two...

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  • Fuel pump Two...

    Ok. My 88 Ford Ranger crapped out a while back down town. It has an internal tank pump and an external high pressure pump. The filter was clogged and when they replaced it it ran. BUT, when I got it back from the shop I had no reading on the fuel guage. Today I decided to have a look. I had the truck running to warm up. Crawled underneath the truck and followed the wire harness to the top of the tank. It was loose. It sparked a bit when I fiddled with it. There was raw gas lying on top of the tank. I could smell it on my fingers. I am lucky I wasn't incinerated. I am going to have a little heart to heart talk with the shop that had a look at my truck. I would do it but I figure it is cheaper sometimes to pay someone else to do the **** work.

    Now, as proposed by the other thread on this topic, I cut out a hole in the truck bed to gain easy access to the top of the tank. It turns out that whoever worked on my truck must have pulled the harness off the connectors and then couldn't get it put back on. So, fine. FU***** well tell me about it then!! But no, as I drove home I noticed the gas guage no longer was working. I cut a hole in the bed as the easiest way to gain access. Anyone know how this pump is removed from the tank? There are no bolts or other fasteners.

    Any one have any idea which wire goes where? I don't have a manual. I'll be talking to the dealer tommorrow. Grrr...

    [This message has been edited by Evan (edited 11-21-2004).]
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  • #2
    I wouldn't make any effort to do it myself or risk imolation. You paid for the job to be done so put your efforts twords making them do the job right. I'know you shouldn't have to, but the fact is you've got to make an effort now somewher so it may as well be twords ruining someone elses day. Shear contrariness, but it's what I'm good at and I suspect it's one of your many talents as well.



    • #3
      Evan...where the fittings go in, there is a big ol' rusty locking ring. You have to beat it with a punch to remove it. Make sure you have a new one on hand or close by in case it breaks or you have to destroy it to get it out.
      I have tools I don't even know I own...


      • #4
        Thanks Russ, I was afraid that was the case.
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        • #5
          Easy way to change in tank pump on pickup, remove bed mounting bolts on tank side, loosen but leave in bolts on opposite side raise tank side to access pump. worked for me. chiphead42


          • #6

            Have fun and watch for carefull



            • #7
              Evan,I have an 86' and a 90',I had to change pumps on both.
              Simplest acess for both was six bed bolts,filler neck and bumper wiring harness,then the whole bed lifts off.I do this to change u-joints,lots easier.

              The rusty tank problem is easier than it looks,I just damned mine up with clay and flooded it with 10:1 muriatic to water.Aout an hour later the rust dissovled enough I could wash the mess off with a garden hose.Then it was simple,just bent the lock tabs out and spiraled it out with a hammer and punch.At least it has a rubber gasket to hit against which makes it move easier.

              If you want to ditch that rust old metal tank,the later models have plastic ones that are far better.At least the Rangers do have a high degree of parts-swapability.
              I just need one more tool,just one!


              • #8
                I hope they didn't charge you for having removed the pump from in the tank or cleaning the strainer on the pump pick up. Because to me it doesn't look like that pump has been out in a long long time. If thats the case I can't understand why they have disconnected the wiring.
                If you take it out I'd replace the lock ring and apply a liberal dose of anti sieze.


                • #9
                  They didn't charge me for work on the pump, only replacing the fuel filter. I spoke to the service manager this afternoon. He made all the right noises. I intend to get a refund at least, maybe a free pump replacement. I'll supply the part and they can install it for me for free. Otherwise I will relate my experience to as many people as I can. This is a small town.
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                  • #10
                    Evan, I would strongly suggest you replace the tank at the same time. I had a 86 ranger that the pump went on, had it replaced, you guessed it, a month later the damn tank sprung a leak! Cost me labor twice instead of once.

                    Paul in NE Ohio
                    Paul in NE Ohio


                    • #11
                      Even, There is some stuff called Kreem for repairing rusty fuel tanks. It works very well, I have used it on a few motorcycle tanks. There is a cleaner, which is an acid wash that comes with the kit and then the sealant, which coats and seals the tank. It'll never rust again if applied properly. I'm sure this product can be found on the Internet and at motorcycle shops, but you'll requre a kit larger than for a bike tank.

                      Whatever you do, repair or replace the tank or the rust will ruin yet another fuel pump.


                      • #12
                        Cuss-to-mer asked me the otherday what was the best way to fix a rusty fuel tank in his boat.I told him either stainless steel or aluminum and a tig torch
                        I just need one more tool,just one!


                        • #13
                          I did the same to my astro- cut out a door to make pump replacement easier. I thought I would vacuum the grit away from the opening before I re-installed the pump and locking ring- then I realized that hmm, vacuuming the fumes from the tank, sparking brushes in the vacuum motor- I'm still here though.
                          I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


                          • #14
                            POR 15 is another option for cleaning up/sealing a rusty tank. I used their stuff on some outboard motor tanks.
                            BTW, I've heard it's a good idea to use a brass punch for loosing up that retaining ring, to insure (hopefully) there's no sparks generated.


                            • #15
                              Looks like the guy was trying to help you out, and got in over his head.

                              New pump + new screen + new tank + new pigtail + new straps(?) = Never worry about it again.


                              If ya wannit done your way ya gotta do it yourself.