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Wiper motors...low tech..

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  • Wiper motors...low tech..

    I'm slowly getting this quill drive together. This is the beginning, the butchering of the wiper assembly... If you look close you'll see the cut lines from the hacksaw. Only took a couple minutes..

    What it looks like after all the junk is cut off

    This is after it's cleaned up in the lathe

    This GM motor is sorta neat....they're probably all the same, but it has two speeds (of course) with a twist. The high speed goes one way and the low speed goes the opposite way. Could be handy. It does run on a battery charger but doesn't like the 2 amp setting much. I also tried a power window motor. They are nice and compact with decent power but seem to heat up pretty fast. It figures I guess, wiper motors sometimes run for hours on end but (unless you have kids..lol) window motors only run short durations. Next pics will be of the gear reduction units...one a chain and sprocket and the primary, a set of modified planetary gears out of a Turbo 350.
    Russ


    I have tools I don't even know I own...

  • #2
    It's pretty common for a window motor to have a wound field and armature, at least from what I've seen, especially if more than a few years old. Those will draw a lot of current, and will heat up fast. I wouldn't use one of those for anything. Wiper motors are made for continuous running, and are the motor of choice, at least from the automotive field. If I went that route, I would be looking for one from an older ford truck, since that's what I've found to have a very rugged gearbox and output shaft. The other factor, though, is that since you want the motor to turn either direction, the brushes should hit the commutator straight on, and not angled as I've also seen on some motors. I personally like to use satelite dish actuator motors and gearboxes, as they are already designed to turn either way, and are generally 36 volt, which keeps the current draw down and should make brush life longer. When these actuators fail, it's typically not because the motor or brushes are worn out, so it might be possible for you to find some useable scrapped ones at a satelite dealer. Most of these have some sort of thrust bearing on the output shaft, so that could be a bonus if it's used to drive a leadscrew directly. Thrust ratings are typically 500 to 1500 lbs, so that would be quite workable.
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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    • #3
      I think a very easy way to get started with your design for a quill drive motor would be to buy a cheap 1/2" variable speed reversible hand drill since the major problems are going to be addressed: 110 V, reversible, varible speed and geared for a fair amount of torque and fairly easy to locate and not too expensive. Bob

      [This message has been edited by Allmetal (edited 11-29-2004).]

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      • #4
        darryl, I like the idea of the dish motor but they are hard to find around here. We only have one guy that does it and he gives any spares to the college. The worm screw is now cut off and one of the small planetary gears will be mounted on the shaft.
        Bob, This was suggested before so I tried a mockup with a borrowed screwdriver and with my Makita 3/8" drill. Both where really choppy under load at the low rpm (revolutions per minute..lol) that I need so a reduction setup would have to be built anyway. This wiper motor will be far easier to mount than a plastic case on a drill also. It has to be pretty skookum as it'll be powering a boring head for 3 to 4" dia holes in alu and steel. I just wish we had a surplus place where you could buy stuff like this. There is one that's 4 hrs away but they don't have what I need. Besides. I need a guinea pig to see if my quick disconnect drive is going to work.
        I have tools I don't even know I own...

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