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Taper turning success

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  • Taper turning success

    I finished a couple more morse taper end mill holders, with my new taper attachment, It works great, The first time I tried to make a taper, I never had a specific plan to do it just chucked in a piece of 3/4" steel bar did the usual drilling and reaming for endmill hole, then turned it around and did the taper cutting, then drilled and tapped the hole for the drawbar.
    Results a lot of run out, so much that I had a lot of vibration trying to use a 3/8" end mill on aluminum.
    So began to pick this apart, I purchased a 3MT to 2MT reducer thinking I could cut a taper then stick this in the reducer and stick the whole assembly in my lathe and then do the final drilling for the draw bar.
    Well I found out that tolerances between 2 factory made tapers can vary enough to not give a good fit, so again no success.
    I've learned that machining things takes patience and endurance, so after many attempts to machine a satisfactory taper tool holder, I decided it was time to turn this into a science.
    I drew out the plan followed it made revisions and finalized the plan for a successful taper. Good enough for my expectations, and here is the plan I followed and came out with 3 very well done 2MT tool holders, 2 of them for 3/8" endmills, and another to hold an 1/2" end mill.
    Please note since I have a 7x10 mini lathe, this is the procedure that worked for me, maybe won't work for another type lathe, but I found if I find the weekness in a particular tool, to the best I can I like to design procedures to work around that weekness, and still get the good results I'm looking for.

    Here is the procedure I came up with...

    Making a taper

    1. chuck in a commercial taper for the accessorie being used for. Dial indicate it in to less than a thou. if possible.

    2. set up taper jig using a widest parrallel to match the taper.

    3. chuck in a blank work piece, around 3 1/4" long Dial indicate it in and using a steady rest face off one end, then center drill then remove steady rest and place tailstock center in the hole check with indicator and machine down the whole bar with a skim cut to remove all irregularities.
    , then remove work piece and turn it end for end with the freshly machined part into the chuck, put back steady rest and dial indicate it in again.

    4. face the end then drill center hole remove steady rest put back tail stock center, check indicator ,again machine the whole length of the bar down to the chuck.

    5. Then put back steady rest ,check indicator and bore and ream to proper hole diameter to hold the tooling.

    6. remove work piece and at the drill press, drill cross hole for set screw, to hold the tooling. workpiece back in the chuck with large hole towards headstock, dial indicate it in
    put tail stock center back in, then machine down to the 0.59" diameter for a lenghth of 0.4"
    lenghth to later be able to place steady rest jaws on this section.

    8. put taper jig on and replace tail stock dial in and machine taper, to the required dimensions dictated by the tooling taper I'm duplicating.

    9.put steady rest back on the lathe, and dial indicate the workpiece, placing the jaws on the spigot made in step 7 , then drill size hole needed for the specific tap to use, then tap the hole, test for run out and the job is done.