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  • Band Saw Improvement

    When I tried to use the length stop to make repeted cuts on my old h/v bandsaw, somtimes the cutoff piece would wedge between the stop and blade and damage the blade. At $20.00/each for my favorites and cheap ones being more expensive than that in the long run I found room for improvement. With the addition of two shaft collars and leaving the stop loose to swing down out of the way while cutting - problem solved.

    Setting Length (stop held up)


    Sawing position (stop swung down)


  • #2
    Yaah, but what holds it up, besides that finger you have shown in the picture?
    Because when I am at the other end of the shop, shoving that 20 foot piece of 2" square tubing with the 1/4" wall in, my finger doesnt reach over there. Do you have one of those Spy VS Spy extendo-fingers?

    Comment


    • #3
      Excellent idea.

      I did a similar thing, but not so professional. I drilled out a nut, tapped in a set screw, only a little off center and crooked, epoxied the allen wrench in the setscrew so I wouldn't loose the wrench and I wouldn't have to keep hitting that little hole and only used one on the outside. It WAS functional and now that you posted that picture, I have to do another project to correct THAT ugly.

      Figured that one out by stealing the bullet depth gauge from Sinclair. Don't know how that happened. Alzheimer the Turk must have been gone that day.

      I need to get a camera so I can post pictures of my "successes and other successes" . Everyone needs a laugh every day.

      Happy Holidays.

      Comment


      • #4
        nice trick, some cheap pre made set collars are so handy at times like that.

        the same could be used on an iron worker shear, solid stops tend to get shoved out as you use it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Good idea! I had better do that to mine.
          Michael

          Comment


          • #6
            Great idea!

            But why do you need two collars? Seems like just one would surfice.

            Oh, and if you replaced the original set screw in the stop with a thumb screw with a piece of nylon under it, you could set friction to hold it up but still allow it to easily swing down.

            Paul A.


            [This message has been edited by Paul Alciatore (edited 11-30-2004).]
            Paul A.

            Make it fit.
            You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

            Comment


            • #7
              I tapped a 1/4-20 hole and use a thumbscrew in my saw, it works fine. Didn't use the 'stock' setscrew location, as it's on the back side.

              Also, I turned lines on the bar every half inch, and stamped numbers for every inch on it. (The bar on mine came blackened). It only 'works' from approx. 2 to 8 inches, and roughly at that, but it's good for what it is...

              James C

              Comment


              • #8
                The 9" X 12" Ramsaw(much like a Rockwell of similar size) that I had several years ago, had a similar set up, but with some very convenient features. The stop was located by snap rings and it had a ball detent for holding the stop in position when setting stock, you simply flipped it out of the way. The length bar had a full length flat for the locking bolt, and the bar passed through the base frame. The original bar was too short for my purposes at the time, so I made a longer length bar for the lengths needed. That saw sure was easy to use for some cutting jobs.
                Harry

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                • #9
                  I like your idea but I'm to fugal to spring for collars. What I did was take a 1/8"x1"x5" piece of steel and drilled a hole with a slip fit. Then welded a tab on the edge that rests on the stop. That way I can place long stock and then just flip the temp stop up to get clearance. I also made a rod with a 45آ؛ bend in it so I can cut multiple angled cuts with the same easy. Another thing I really like is the pair adjustable stock support roller that I picked up... make feeding that long stock a breeze.
                  Wow... where did the time go. I could of swore I was only out there for an hour.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Man! That's too simple. I bet I could rig up something MUCH more complicated and fragile and ineffective than two stop collars.

                    Hmm lessee. A hunk of 3" Acme lead screw, five custom castings, a bunch of machines hardend and ground parts, and about $600 and I could make one that works as well, almost.

                    In other words, nice solution to a PITA problem.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Two collars as shown and put a wavy washer (spring washer?) between the stop and the collar nearest the blade and apply enough pressure for friction to hold the thing up? Or did someone say that already?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think I'm seeing something different here.

                        Gkman is having trouble with the work jamming because of the stop?

                        What I'm seeing is the stop set higher that it needs to be and a bloody great screw sticking up to catch the work as it comes clear.

                        These saws run with the blade pulling onto the fixed vise jaw. As soon as the work comes free it will hit this screw, turn diagonally and be longer than the cut length, corner to corner and jam the blade.

                        If that screw was replaces with a sunken grub screw and the stop lowered slightly all that would happen is the cut piece would roll off the stop, past the screw hole and drop clear.
                        If you look there is more unsupported weight than supported.

                        All that stops this happening now is that screw.
                        Just took a look at three commercial saws and all three have their bar lock screw UNDER the table so they can't foul.

                        John S.
                        .

                        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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