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lube for rotary table?

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  • lube for rotary table?

    My asian rotary was giving me grief so I decided to take it apart and clean up some of the "gritty" edges. Of coarse it's lubed with that G-- awful smelling paste as thick as shoe polish. I removed the "cosmolene" and polished the parts that needed it but now I need to re-lube it. Wheel bearing , white lithium, auto chassis?? Or, should I plug all holes and use a gear oil or even STP( which, BTW, works wonders on the spindle/axle of clothes driers)?

    Forgot to mention that my concern is about the roller and thrust bearings and the worm gear, all of which are not accessible without dismantling the table again.


    [This message has been edited by joahmon (edited 12-20-2004).]

  • #2
    Use way oil.
    Location: North Central Texas

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    • #3
      I use Mobil DTE light in my Phase II 6" rotary table see http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...med_Series.asp

      Don Clement
      Running Springs, California

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      • #4
        I use Mobil DTE light in my 10" Horz/Vert Yuasa type rotary table.. The oil goes into the oil cup on the side and takes a very long time. There is also an oil window one the side.



        -3Ph

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        • #5
          I use Mobil SHC 634(ISO 460) pg 2672-MSC. It's designed for worm gears. I guess some oils are hard on bronze parts. Troyke recomends a 600W oil (kudos to them for their customer service)

          Jon Bohlander
          My PM Blog

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          • #6
            Thanx 4 the replies.

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            • #7
              the same lube for the ways should work for the rotary table

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              • #8
                Why are some R tables refered to as "Yuasa" type?I be need'n an R table and this seems to be a selling point?

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                • #9
                  I have a question on my rotary table maybe you fellows can answer. When I store my table the oil slowly seeps out from the around the crank handle. My solution so far has been to store with the crank pointing up. I'm wondering if the seepage is normal and if not what can I do about it?

                  Dick

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                  • #10
                    Dick
                    install an o-ring on the shaft or if it has one already replace it as it may be damaged.

                    BWS
                    Because some guys just WISH they had a real "Yausa" table which is a really high quality unit - and not the import cheapy that they DO own (myself included).

                    Personally I would rather have a 6" or 8" Meca (manual) or Nikken CNC table myself, but then I know better. Barring that the Bison H/V table is the best steal for under $2,000 (Canadian - fully loaded 10").

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                    • #11
                      Maybe the Yuasa types have tapered roller bearings. My POS has straight roller bearings and besides the .001" runout, which I can live with, there is .0015" slop in the bearings. Built with a nice split nut to adjust the load on tapered bearings but not tapered bearings so lots of slop!!!! Found all this out when I tries to take out the slop and the table bound up in some places. I took it apart to polish up the sliding surfaces when I discovered that cheap a$$ design. Interesting, the bearing is made in Japan.

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                      • #12
                        Thankyou there Mr. Thrud,kinda what I figured.Will continue the search for a mint Troyke or other old line.Budgeting around a grand for a real nice 12.

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                        • #13
                          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BWS:
                          Thankyou there Mr. Thrud,kinda what I figured.Will continue the search for a mint Troyke or other old line.Budgeting around a grand for a real nice 12.</font>
                          I saw a very nice (but dirty) Troyke 12" rotary table at a used machine shop store for $275. I would have bought it if I didn't already own my 10" Yuasa type. Machine shop stores tend to price things high too so if your budgeting a grand, you should be able to get any table you want. A real "Yuasa type" table has the same design, and same specs for trueness, squareness, taper squareness, etc. I found that my table actually has better than advertised specs (nothing falls outside of .0006) and .0008 was advertised.

                          Be advised that a 10" table (Mine weighs 120lbs) is not exactly easy to man-handle. A 12" table could easly weight in around 140+ lbs so take that into consideration.. You can probably GET PAID TO REMOVE a brand new condition Yuasa or Bridgeport 30-40" rotary from some shops simply because they are so heavy, nobody want's to use them

                          -3Ph

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                          • #14
                            Speaking of rotary tables;

                            What's the advantage of a rotary table over
                            a dividing head?

                            Somone told me that rotary tables made the
                            D/H obsolete. Is that really true?

                            TIA

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                            • #15
                              <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by maddog:
                              Speaking of rotary tables;

                              What's the advantage of a rotary table over
                              a dividing head?

                              Somone told me that rotary tables made the
                              D/H obsolete. Is that really true?

                              TIA
                              </font>
                              Whomever told you that was a dumb **** or was trying to con you out of buying that sweet D/H you were looking at and drooling on...

                              Normally, you can't mount an engine block (fer example) on a dividing head but you sure can with a rotary table - then you can machine 5 sides of the work piece.

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