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Parallel Holders

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  • #16
    Styrofoam. Also Banding.
    CCBW, MAH

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    • #17
      Good website marv!!!Well done.Alistair
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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      • #18
        <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mochinist:
        The one bad thing about the rubber band is every once in awhile they break and shoot you. It usuallys happens when your deep in concentration and turning handles, it usually scares the bejezzus out of me because I am not expecting it. </font>

        Wimp


        .

        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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        • #19
          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by John Stevenson:

          Wimp


          </font>
          ROFLMAO!!!!
          Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, Clausing 8520 mill, Diacro 24" shear, Reed Prentice 14" x 34"

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          • #20
            Hey now be nice lol

            [This message has been edited by mochinist (edited 12-29-2004).]

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            • #21
              I usually use some banding bent into a "W" so it stands up. Something purchased will work for most things but there's always the first time it's too big/small and you'll wind up making something. Banding is cheap, easily removed for cleaning chips out, and a few sizes will cover most jobs. There is also the birdmouth design that's used by most diemakers for holding the ball cages up during line up but I don't think I can adequately describe that at this hour of the AM. There's also the Z form that will squash flat to 3 material thicknesses and is stable in the vise. Chips always work in under the parallel so easy removal is important. Springs (die springs anyway) can push up unless they're fairly weak. I'm out of ideas and coffee right now.

              [This message has been edited by roninB4 (edited 12-30-2004).]

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              • #22
                Cut up a old bandsaw blade and bend it to suit.
                Old timers trick.

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                • #23
                  You can drill a small hole in the parallel and press a rare earth magnet in - it really should have a brass or aluminum sleeve around the magnet if pressed into a blind hole (only the depth of the magnet) to ensure the magnet retains maximum coercivity (sp) over time - (so it does not poop out like your cheezy magnetic base did over time). This allows the magnet to form a tight circuit with its back pole and the outward facing pole - the diamagnetic metal (the brass or aluminum) acts as an insulator between the two poles thus the field across the diamagnetic material across the face is considerably stonger than the magnet would have in free air and it will have a much higher attractive force to steel.

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