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OT: Moving a gun safe

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  • rockrat
    replied
    None taken, we're all just having fun learning! rock-

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  • MikeHenry
    replied
    Rockrat,

    No slight intended - just trying to point out other ways of doing things and issues that might need considering.

    Bottom line is that we both completed our respective moving jobs with no damage to human or tool.

    Mike

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  • rockrat
    replied
    Mikehenry - I set my rig up to allow me to move the safe under the horizontal brace. This way I was always strapped in as the safe tipped over the edge of the steps. I didnt worry about the house structure with the horizontal where it was due to the fact that there is a wall running parallel with the stairs on each side of the door. But, I do like your electric winch. You probably have more distance there that I had with the come-along.

    I did however slide the safe on the cardboard box that it came in similar to what rgravis mentioned.

    It sounds like you have a good thought with the trailer. Give it a go. Have some help with you for backup. Use pipe under the safe to roll it along. Works great.

    The store should load it into the trailer for you. The place that I bought it from had 3 big boys lift it into my truck! And they had a forklift that I tried to point out would be safer than some young studs back. Oh well, never give up. rock-

    [This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 01-03-2005).]

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  • rgravis
    replied
    I used to sell gun safes. A good apliance dolly will do the trick on a 750 lb. safe. You should be able to scoot it on carpet. If it does not scoot, try putting a piece of cardboard under it. If it is on a slick floor, get a piece of carpet and put it upside down on the floor and put the safe on top of it. Get plenty of help, go slow, and be careful. Good Luck!

    [This message has been edited by rgravis (edited 01-03-2005).]

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  • jkilroy
    replied
    That slippery stuff is Teflon. Strips of solid teflon aren't real cheap either. I watched one guy slide a 1500lb safe across a piece of the stuff that looked like a bed sheet. He warned us to never try standing on it unless you want a short trip to the ground.

    ------------------
    James Kilroy

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  • MikeHenry
    replied
    It's not a safe, but I used a method similar to Rockrat's to move a grinder base down a flight of stairs:

    http://member.newsguy.com/~mphenry/base_move.htm

    I'm no structural engineer but figured it was better to have the winch frame anchored at the base of the door frame, rather than part way up as Rockrat did. I also used a HF 400/800 lb electric winch to lower the base as the remote switch let me stay away from the cable should it have decided to break loose.

    Make sure you use rigging slings rather than binder tie downs between the load and winch or come-along - the slings are available from McMaster-Carr.

    Mike

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  • Wayne02
    replied
    The space at the end of the hallway is too tight to have any sort of moving dolly sticking out past the perimeter of the base of the safe. It's got to make that 90 degree turn while completely upright and boxed in on two sides. The clearance thru the door opening will be tight but doable if I remove the door to the room.

    Seems like this pretty much dictates some sort of multi piece slider arrangement. Either pipe or uhmw. Pipe would work if I put plywood down. Pipe seems like it would work ok going in one direction. But if I need to side step the safe a bit in that travel, I'm not sure how they would work.

    Maybe 4" wide strips of uhmw or equivalent material, say 2ft long, quantity 4. 1/4" would likely sink into the carpet under that weight and become ineffective, so maybe some 1/2" stuff? Where would I look for something like this?

    Been toying with the idea of picking the safe up from the store myself. They want $200 just to drop it in the driveway, and don't offer any sort of placement service inside the house.

    I have a open deck, tilting car trailer with a winch. Maybe have them set it on the trailer with their forklift. I might be able to back the trailer right up to the landing by my front door. If I could somehow wrestle it off of the shipping pallet while it was on the trailer, and then strap it on the dolly. I could tilt the bed, get the dolly/safe combo lined up with the front door opening... then jump on it and ride down the slope hoping to squirt thru the front door...

    Ok, maybe not. May be able to winch the dolly/safe combo down the slope though.

    Wayne

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  • Paul Gauthier
    replied
    If you can open the doors you may be able to lift them off makes it much lighter.

    ------------------
    Paul G.

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  • rockrat
    replied
    Here is a look at my safe move. It was between 600 and 700 lbs. I used 1/2" dia pipe to roll the safe around on and was able to move the thing myself. Young, dumb and full of ..... I learned a while back that you can move heavy things by yourself but you have to be thinking constantly and watching your back. Levers, ramps, chains, rope and wheels.

    Moving

    Do as noted in an above post, lag bolt that thing to cement on the bottom and the back if possible. Keeps the safe in place.

    [This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 01-01-2005).]

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  • Happy
    replied
    Hire the local tow truck guy to move it. cheap and easy.

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  • meho
    replied
    I've heard a lot of good things about the Zanotti safe. It is pricey and the fire rating is not as good as some but it seems to be a good trade off for move ability.

    I'm surprised that no one has talked about the importance about bolting the safe down once installed. Even if a burgular doesn't get into your safe, if it's turned over viloently think about what happens to the stuff inside.

    A person I know put his safe in his auto repair shop. In retrospect not a good idea. He talked about his collection alot and sure enough he was broken in on. His safe was turned over and the back was cut out. No amount of relockers in the world would have saved that safe with all the free supplied equipment the thieves had available in there.

    All the safes I've seen have holes on "16 centers. Make sure they are used.

    Another story is about a guy I shot IPSC with. He forgot his combination. He DID bolt his safe down. After bustin out part of the concrete block wall in his basement to read the serial number off the back of his safe Treadlock gave the dealer the combination.

    James

    James

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  • HTRN
    replied
    I plan on picking up a 52 gun safe in the next couple of months but I plan on putting it in the basement. Here's the problem, I plan on moving in a couple of years and really don't like the idea of hauling a 6 foot tall, forty inch wide, 1200lb+ safe up a flight of stairs... The solution? Buy a Zanotti safe - they're designed to come apart as panels with no panel weighing more than 300 pounds. The panels go together inside with pins..


    HTRN

    ------------------
    This Old Shed

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  • codyb
    replied
    Here is a pix of piano/organ dolly.
    http://www.vandaking.com/us-shop/ind...atalog4_0.html

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  • debequem
    replied
    Check if you can rent a motorized dolly. That will make the entry steps easier.

    Also, the guy that moves my safe has a belt harness he uses. It wraps around his waist and has a long strap that he ties to the load. He can pull the load from his center of gravity.

    The guy (Pete) is probably 150 to 160 lbs., but he moves safes for a living and makes it look easy. Pete also has that white plastic to protect floors. I suspect UHMW plastic. Obviously, Pete does not use brute force, but thinks his moves out carefully and executes them flawlessly.

    Make sure you have a good helper/spotter to keep things from getting out of control.

    Marv

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  • firbikrhd1
    replied
    I moved a safe by lying sheets of plywood down over my carpeted and tiled floors and using pipe rollers to move the safe. Worked great. With a smooth surface like the plywood, small rollers can be used so the transition from rollers to the floor isn't a big one (less chance of tipping the safe over)

    Recently I moved a vertical mill (1300 pounds) into my garage. It came on a pallet and I was concerned about how to get it from pallet to floor safely, without tipping over. I had no overhead hoist to lift it, so I resorted to a primitive but effective way to remove the pallet. I simply pulled what ever nails I could then used a sledge hammer to break the pallet apart. By removing the supporting members between the top and bottom of the pallet on one end, I was able to make the pallet into a sort of ramp and the mill could be pushed off to the floor.
    It was crude but effective and took little time.

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