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Threading tool

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  • Threading tool

    When I got my old South Bend 9" there was a threading tool that came with it, it was circular and went on the end of a special tool bit holder. You just ground the top edge and rotated the bit up a little when it needed sharpening. Are these bits available anywhere?


  • #2
    I think I've seen them in tool catalogs w/in the last year or so, but can't recall which ones. You might try MSC and/or Enco. ...or others. Kinda pricey I think.
    I've also seen them regularly on ebay.

    I assume they must work pretty well, huh? ...since you're looking for a replacement.


    • #3
      If a search for a replacement proves futile, it seems as though it ought to be possible to make one out of some O-1 or W-1. Hardening/tempering evenly would probably be more of a challenge than actually making the shape.

      Since I assume you cut threads the way I do -- at slow speed -- there will be little heat generated and plain carbon steel ought to stand up quite well.
      Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
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      • #4
        Armstrong made one of those tools. Here's the formed tool bit for it. I have no experience with JTS but I'm sure other Armstrong dealers would have it (or can get it). Den


        • #5
          They are still available but I am told they are very expensive. When mine wears out, I am going to turn a disc from Drill Rod and harden it to use. I will cut the correct angles with the compound before parting it off from the stock. May have to be a bit of filing and grinding before hardening, but that's life.


          • #6
            WOW!! I had no idea that they were so expensive!

            Thanks for the responses.



            • #7
              I think I had better start to keep mine locked in a safe when not in use! LOL!


              • #8
                I've only seen pictures of them. Is the cutter mounting hole eccentric to the cutting edge, to provide the relief?


                • #9
                  They can be made of a round blank with the center of rotation above the cutting edge, that'll give the needed relief. Of course, you have to compensate the profile's angle (won't be exactly 60 degrees) to account for the below center grind.

                  If that isn't clear, imagine the side view of the disk as a clock. The cutting edge would be ground horizontal or with slight back rake at about the 4 o'clock position.

                  [This message has been edited by DR (edited 01-16-2005).]


                  • #10
                    Ok, I think I get the picture. If I'm understanding it right, it means the angle of the cutter (as measured on a radial line) is actually a little more than 60dg. So when the flat top is ground it results in a 60dg form.


                    • #11

                      Armstong states: "The tool is ground to an included angle of approximately 65 degrees. The extra 5 degrees compensates for rake angle and the grinding of the tool - a perfect 60 degree thread is produced when the tool is set into the work properly."