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Pistol suppressor

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  • Pistol suppressor

    I just finished building a 300 AAC BLK pistol and want to build a suppressor for it.
    Question is, do I need to use a titanium can or will aluminum do the job. There is a large difference in cost.
    can anyone recommend a kit that works well?
    I intend to file a form 1 and pay the tax of course.
    I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

  • #2
    Aluminum will work and cost less, last time I checked titanium was $15/lb scrap!


    • #3
      So you're actually building a rifle suppressor, not a pistol suppressor. Big difference is that a pistol suppressor generally uses a booster piston, yours will not. 300 Blk is a rifle cartridge regardless of your AR configuration.

      You can get away with a D-cell Maglite body for 300 Blk. Use stainless steel (I prefer 17-4 PH) for the first few baffles at least, you can use aluminum for the remaining baffles if you prefer. Use very thin aluminum tube (like .050" wall or less) for the baffle spacers.

      For a guy who can do his own machine work, you're much better off to make it all yourself instead of using one of those solvent trap kits. Those usually end up being way heavier than necessary, even if you buy the expensive titanium tubes and baffles. I've handled and fired a number of them and haven't seen one yet that wasn't way overbuilt and excessively heavy.


      • #4
        Are you shooting sub-sonic or supersonic ammo? Big power difference in 300 AAC.


        • #5
          Looks like the commercial options are all using either steel or titanium. Personally, i wouldnt wanna risk aluminium for a rifle-caliber suppressor. Pistol caliber sure, but not rifle. Steel can sounds like a decent option if titanium would break the bank though


          • #6
            I'm new here, I come from the Form1 website (been there a while) but I'll share with you what I learned from years of doing this. I have MANY 300ACC projects, any friend of a 300 BO is a friend of mine. It's the caliber that can "do it all". Shoot quiet and slow (1000fps at 220gr) or hit hard and fast (2200fps at 110gr). Suits all kinds of trespasser-eradication-situations. My favorite gun.
            If you're going to shoot a lot and shoot sub AND supersonic loads, go titanium. Buy once, cry once. The titanium is a rigid tube. No baffle strikes from a floppy AL tube. The can whips a bit out there. Let me warn you, baffle strikes run the gamut of "what was that" to "holy-mother-of-jesus". If you destroy the can, you WILL get a new Form1. No kidding. And you could go to the ER.
            First the basics: Best "host" to the can is a 10.5" 1 in 8 twist heavy barrel. They are rigid. Not a lot of barrel whip. All the powder is burnt in 10". No gain in a longer barrel, make sure it's a GOOD barrel and you'll have accuracy to 500M. I get about 1-2 MOA subsonic at 100M and less. 3-4 MOA below 300M. After 300M just go supersonic. They'll never know where you are at that distance.
            I put a 45 degree shoulder on the barrel and a 44 degree in the end cap to keep it from loosening. Speaking of loosening, that where the titanium is the best choice. It stays rigid under heat and the expansion rate is very linear. Ti tubes mate up well with SS baffles and blast chamber liners. The guts of these get very hot so don't go "thin" on the internals. If you do get too thin on the guts they will collapse and you'll get baffle strikes. The tolerances on a quiet can are tight. Subsonic bullets wobble a little. Supersonic makes the barrels whip. Isn't this FUN!

            My muzzle end caps are Grade 5, .750 thick. The barrels are threaded that deep as well. My tubes are Grade 5 and all the baffles are 17-4 SS. Those baffles can be sourced on the internet. You can drill and heat-treat them yourself. You'll gain about 10 Rockwell points (35Rh to 45 Rh) after heat treating. It's call 900H treating. Heat them to 900 for an hour and let them air cool. Put them in a SS bag and put 2 fortunes from fortune cookies in there. Burns up all the O2 in the SS bag at 451F. Clever, huh?
            Take it from me, those CNC guys can just run circles around us when it comes to making baffles. Just pay them. In hindsight, their prices are ridiculously cheap compared to making your own.
            AND, the parts are as close to identical as they get, that matters when you're stacking baffles. Matters a lot. Also, use skirted baffles. They are much more rigid.
            I drill the center-bores in steps, starting with the first at .375 and gradually work down to .325 at the last baffle/end cap. The magic number of baffles is 7. The blast chamber should be about square to the bore.That's from the first baffle cone to the muzzle end. The OD of the can will be 1.5". The ID around 1.345. It's called "D" cell sizing and is the most common size used.
            Space the first 3 cones about .750 apart, the next pair .625 apart and the last pair .500 apart. The idea is to constantly taper/increase the restriction as the gas passes down the can.
            The end cap opening should no thicker than .100. Make the end cap about 1/4" thick and chamfer it on both sides.This can will get about 7-8" in length and weigh 18-24 oz depending on baffles.
            For more detailed info like baffle clipping, take a number of days and research that forum. In a nutshell, that's what you'll come away with from the most knowledgeable guys on there. All I have said here is my learning from that site. Opinions differ from mine on that site, but the report from my 300BO (after the first shot) is as loud as the gun's mechanical action. About as loud as a car door shutting, a sneeze. It's quite amazing. We go shooting and just converse normally with NO hearing protection. Neighbors don't even know we're there.
            One word of warning, Grade 5 Ti does not like being threaded. An extremely rigid machine is required to thread those tubes and end caps.If that type machine isn't yours just buy the tubes and end caps. They will be Grade 9, but they're no slouch. As an aside Gr5 (6Al-4V) has a tensile of 132Kpsi, Gr9 (3Al-2.5V) has a tensile of 90kpsi and Gr2 (pure, no alloy) is 50kpsi.
            Those are the commercial tubes used for aerospace, bicycles, auto/motorcycle racing intakes and exhausts. Don't even consider Gr2. Might as well use 7075 AL at that point.
            This material isn't cheap and you will have to get "internet creative" to source some of this. It may take some time to research. Don't get in a hurry and cut a corner, trust me on that one.
            A 6061 tube will blow apart with supers, the blast chamber tubing (liner) will have to be seamless. Isn't this fun? Let us know how this goes. You're going on an adventure...........
            I don't mean to discourage you, but these things are more complex than they seem at first.


            • #7
              Forgot something, you'll have to have the tube engraved. BATF specs say 2-3 thousandths deep so laser engraving is out. Find a guy with a Pantograph machine (trophy guy) and have him engrave it. If no luck, send it to me and I'll do it.


              • #8
                If you want some awasome expansion at subsonic levels try these If you do a form 1 trust & e file time is about 31 days Using a bit of wire pulling gell will quiet it down with no 1st rd pop. I use D size 4 battery mag lights & have a freeze plug die but I shoot bolt actions so no "mag dumps" works well for me & are dirt cheap. Here's a good article I found I'm just glad in 1934 they forgot the cost of living clause on the $200 tax stamp.