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Removing blueing

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  • Franz©
    replied
    WHY pray tell is Phosphoric difficult to dispose of unless you're a HazMat coordinator?
    Have you read the ingredients in CocaCola?

    You want gentility go with molasses. I recommend against using it in cookies after rust removal.

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  • DanO
    replied
    Iosso makes a blue remover.

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  • huskerman
    replied
    I use 50/50 water muriatic acid. Vinegar works well too, just takes time. The upside to vinegar is that you can let it sit in it and it will barely etch the metal. the 50/50 mix works within seconds to minutes, depending on the quality of bluing.

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  • gzig5
    replied
    I think that Naval Jelly will remove blueing.

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  • ironmonger
    replied
    How about our old friend EvapoRust?

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  • rolland
    replied
    Birchwood Casey blue and rust remover. Best there is for blue removal and will not harm the metal. Just be sure to wash with hot water to stop the action and if not reblued right away lite coat of oil to prevent rusting. Polish can be done after washing if needed.
    That is all I have used for many years never had a problem

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  • epicfail48
    replied
    Originally posted by Yondering View Post

    CLR is made with lactic acid, not phosphoric. It is not prone to flash rusting afterwards as some claim.
    Meant to say that in my original post, as you can see i somehow put phosphoric twice... thanks for clarifying that, didnt catch it on my end

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  • Yondering
    replied
    Originally posted by epicfail48 View Post

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/CLR-28-o...L-12/100049980

    A cleaning product, does a good job on calcium, lime and rust. Used to be mostly phosphoric acid, now its phosphoric, either way its a mild acid cleaner that does a good job
    CLR is made with lactic acid, not phosphoric. It is not prone to flash rusting afterwards as some claim.

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  • epicfail48
    replied
    Originally posted by Ringo View Post
    what is CLR?
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/CLR-28-o...L-12/100049980

    A cleaning product, does a good job on calcium, lime and rust. Used to be mostly phosphoric acid, now its phosphoric, either way its a mild acid cleaner that does a good job

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  • Yondering
    replied
    Originally posted by Ringo View Post
    what is CLR?
    It's a product actually called CLR, but it stands for Calcium Lime and Rust; i.e. it's a liquid product designed to remove those things. It's available in places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

    I've used it for small parts in an ultrasonic cleaner for removing rust; it works well for that. I've also used Purple Power (similar to Castrol Super Clean) in the same way with good results; those purple degreasers contain lye and will remove blueing.

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  • Baz
    replied
    The remains in the jar from pickled onions is still useful for derusting and this kind of job. Also brightening up copper and brass. saves wasting it. The residue after that if diluted is actually good for some garden plants.

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  • Ringo
    replied
    what is CLR?

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  • epicfail48
    replied
    Aye, any of the usual suspects to remove rust should work fine. Bluing is just a different form of rust, after all. Degrease it to get rid of the protective oil, then submerge in your poison of choice. Id imagine that CLR should work fine, and be easy to dispose of. Mix with some baking soda and toss it down the drain, provided you didnt use it on a toxic heavy metal it isnt harmful. Ditto for vinegar, i just think the CLR would work faster

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  • Ringo
    replied
    I been wanting to try vinegar.
    Vinegar slowly removes rust, and will etch steel, so it should remove blueing as well.

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  • kev74
    replied
    Ammonia is supposed to remove bluing.

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