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Shortening shotgun barrels

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  • Shortening shotgun barrels

    I have a Pedersoli 10ga. DBL muzzleloading shotgun with screw in choke tubes. Regretted buying it the first time I loaded it. My question is, does mounting
    barrels on mill table and hacksawing off just shy of relief in bore then useing mill to finish cut make sense? Should the upper and lower center ribs soldered
    the full length of barrels? Is there a possibility barrels and ribs could spring apart?

  • #2
    You should contact the manufacturer. There's a good chance that none of us have seen the specific model that you have. They do historic recreations, so each model can be expected to have whatever flaws and quirks that the original models had back in the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Pedersoli is still in business.

    Dan
    At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

    Location: SF East Bay.

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    • #3
      If you hate it, does it matter?

      If you do have an issue you can shorten the ribs, and make a barrel band. Its ugly, but it will work.

      I'm pretty sure barrels and barrel ribs on doubles are soldered or silver soldered. If you are not ham handed in cutting it down its unlikely to have an issue. I would note you can rent a barrel choke reamer and choke tap last time I looked. If your gun uses a common choke tube (Rem Choke, Accu Choke, Win Choke, etc) you can probably rent the appropriate tools to re choke the barrel after cutting to use the same choke tubes. If it has a proprietary choke tube, you might not find the right tools, but you should be able to machine it to something else.

      Your mileage may vary. If it goes sprong its on you of course.
      *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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      • #4
        You missed my point Bob. I don't hate it, it's just that it is a colossal pain in the ass to load. Looking to eliminate choke tubes.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Proudpappy View Post
          You missed my point Bob. I don't hate it, it's just that it is a colossal pain in the ass to load. Looking to eliminate choke tubes.
          Fair enough. Have you ever fired a straight (cylinder?) bore shotgun before? Your pattern is quite large and this limits range for small game and game bird shooting.

          Even just an improved cylinder choke gives you some pattern control.
          Last edited by Bob La Londe; 08-31-2020, 02:38 PM.
          *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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          • #6
            What relief in the bore?
            Does the choke tubes not fit correctly to the barrel ID?

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            • #7
              Sure have. In early squirrel season when leaves are still on, which is my favorite time to hunt, anything you're going to pop will right in front of you.
              In retrospect I've come to understand that choke tubes are out of place on a muzzleloader. But, like a few other things, I just had to have it.

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              • #8
                Hello Ringo. Nothing wrong with the tubes themselves. Loading is a PITA.

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                • #9
                  What with the choke tubes difficult?
                  Are they full choke and you trying plastic wads?
                  Are they a lesser choke?
                  I not understanding the choke tubes making it difficult

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                  • #10
                    The problem is not that the chokes don't work. They do. Gun has five chokes cylinder, improved cylinder, modified, full, and extra full. When using the more constricted
                    chokes, to prevent damaging the wads, especially the over shot wads that are thin cardboard, you have to unscrew the tighter choke then screw the cylinder choke
                    in then load then screw cylinder choke out then screw tighter choke back in. Just gets to be an ordeal.

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                    • #11
                      I shot a bit of trap at Friendship some years ago, had a single barrel full choke. I didnt have the same issues as you describe, yeah the wads were tight to get in, but I kept on shootin'.
                      Have you tried any of the newer plastic wads? do you cut your own wads by chance, try a different material?

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                      • #12
                        Hey Ringo, I always used Circle Fly brand wads . Haven't shot it in years. I run by Cabela's in Hamburg Pa everyday so I will talk to their gun gurus and see what
                        they think. If they say I'm nuts to try to cut the barrels down then it will stay hanging on the wall.

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                        • #13
                          One of my buds had a nickel plated coach gun. Double barrel exposed hammers.
                          He banged it hard one time on the concrete corner of the clay thrower and put a crimp in one barrel.
                          We put it in a non submerged Wire EDM and after aligning it, cleanly sliced off less than 1/8” so it remained legal.
                          After that he used one of those Caswell brush plating kits to apply some new nickel to the cut and it was pretty hard to tell anything had been done.
                          Illigitimi non Carborundum 😎
                          9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade and 15.5 in refinery unit operations. Now retired. El Paso, TX

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                          • #14
                            Hello Tim, that was another one of my concerns, dealing with possible burring when cutter exits. Thinking of using a hog mill and taking a thou at most with each pass.

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                            • #15
                              Not sure if I'm seeing the problem correctly but if i am - have you considered making something like the tapered cylinders used for putting pistons in the engine block. Those sit on the block, the top is a large enough ID that the connecting rod goes in with the piston and the ID is large enough to easily accept the piston with the uncompressed rings. As the piston is shoved down, the taper compresses the rings to just under the block cylinder ID and the rod and piston drop into the block. Seems like something that slips over the end of the barrel, sized to just under the Full choke ID would solve the problem. Slip it on, load, take it off and no need to irreversibly alter the gun.

                              You could also make a "loading" choke tube but that would involve more work for each loading.

                              Heck, you could probably make either idea and sell to all the others who have the same type of gun.
                              Last edited by SteveF; 09-04-2020, 03:44 PM.

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