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  • Deburring Gas Port Holes

    I've found it necessary to enlarge the gas port holes in a Remington 1100 barrel. My question to you, my astute colleagues, is how would I deburr the port holes inside the barrel? Right off, I am thinking a brake hone or even some 600grit sandpaper on a rod, spun by a drill. Any thoughts?
    Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

  • #2
    See pages 240-248, you will find something that will work.
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=240&PMCTLG=00

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    • #3
      Thanks Ron, but I saw nothing there that would help me to deburr a hole inside the barrel.

      What about something like this:

      http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak08.html

      What do real gunsmiths use?
      Last edited by Kibby; 03-30-2010, 07:35 PM.
      Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

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      • #4
        I asked that same question on "the other site". Some good info.

        http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-ports-169891/

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kibby
          Thanks Ron, but I saw nothing there that would help me to deburr a hole inside the barrel.

          What about something like this:

          http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak08.html

          What do real gunsmiths use?
          Kibby,
          I own and have built integrally suppressed 10/22’s. Those require porting the barrel, and I have done a number of them. One of the class III weapons builders I used before I began building my own, turned me on to the Cogsdill Burraway tool here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=619-1310
          It can be obtained in different sizes to suit your needs, and can be seen on page 248 of the link I posted. If the tool bottoms out, the end can actually be trimmed back so it will go deeper in a blind hole. But many of the de-burring tools listed in the link I gave you will do the inside of a hole a lot cheaper than the Cogsdill.

          There are some professional builders of AR-15’s that post on the gunsmithing forum at BenchrestCentral.com. If you posted your question there, maybe one of them will tell you what they use.

          One of the things I learned about drilling a port is that you should drill it in 3-4 steps to minimize the burrs. The final size should only be about .002”-.003” larger than the step before it. That way practically no burr will be there to deal with.

          I hope this helps.

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          • #6
            How does that burraway tool work, Ron? Does that triangular end rotate? I guess I am not picturing it.

            Also, if I drill the gas ports in small steps, could I simply use a reamer for the last step? Perhaps the secret is in using sharp drills and then a nice sharp reamer at the end?
            Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

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            • #7
              Holy cow! I just went to the Cogsdill site and saw a video of how that worked. I think that's do the trick, but how will I get my shiny finish back inside the bore? Is a shiny finish necessary inside a shotgun barrel? All I will ever use in this particular gun is 00 if that makes any difference.
              Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

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              • #8
                The blade in the Cogsdill tool is spring loaded, but can be locked in place after it expands on the inside of the hole. You twist the tool back and forth to de-burr, and then unlock the blade so it will fold back inside the holder for removal. It is depicted in the link I posted.

                Drilling is small steps with sharp drill bits helps a lot, and a reamer on the final pass would be fine.

                I wouldn’t worry about a shinny finish or using 00 buckshot. All the shotgun shells I shoot have the shot enclosed in a plastic sleeve. I don’t think lead touches the sides of the barrel anymore.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Kibby
                  Holy cow! I just went to the Cogsdill site and saw a video of how that worked. I think that's do the trick, but how will I get my shiny finish back inside the bore? Is a shiny finish necessary inside a shotgun barrel? All I will ever use in this particular gun is 00 if that makes any difference.
                  Just to be clear.....
                  You do realize that Ron is talking about inserting this tool through the PORTS and not down the muzzle of the barrel right?

                  It sound like you are talking about honing out the bore, which would remove the choke (unless cyl. bore) from your barrel. Not sure you guys are on the same page here.

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                  • #10
                    Low Price: $47.98 ea

                    Cogsdill tools were nearly free when there was a Boeing surplus store

                    I am getting ready to drill a gas hole myself.
                    The rifling makes the de burring tool problematic.

                    http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66814

                    I am going to drill undersize and then ream the hole to .093".
                    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=82792361

                    I always liked reamed holes better than drilled holes; rounder, smoother, more precise diameter.
                    There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway
                    The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by CLARKMAG
                      The rifling makes the de burring tool problematic.
                      The original post concerns a Remington 1100 shotgun....

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                      • #12
                        I use a soft finishing nail with the head ground like a Martini glass. Chuck the nail in a small die grinder, charge it with abrasive paste, insert it through the port and have at it.
                        I find it troubling that you need to open the ports for 00buck. Remington is very generous with the port size. For guns that see a lot of heavy loads I have peened ports closed to protect the gun from battering. I would investigate further before you open the ports. Is the O ring in good shape?
                        Mike

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Highpower
                          The original post concerns a Remington 1100 shotgun....
                          Me thinks thou....
                          There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway
                          The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Highpower
                            Just to be clear.....
                            You do realize that Ron is talking about inserting this tool through the PORTS and not down the muzzle of the barrel right?
                            OMG you are right, I WAS thinking of doing it down the bore. What a dummy I am. Criminy, if thats all I need to do, I can easily make a tool to do this.
                            Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mf205i
                              I find it troubling that you need to open the ports for 00buck.
                              Mike
                              I was stating that I was only going to run 00 through the gun and whether that made a difference.

                              The real reason I need to open the gas holes a bit is that fact that I lopped almost a foot off the barrel, which was originally 30". The gun is otherwise completely refurbed, and rebuilt with new parts. Here's a pic:



                              It runs, but is kind of limp when it loads and ejects. I'm thinking gas ports resized and a new recoil spring and it'll be fine. Oh by the way, the finish is KG Gunkote. Very tough stuff. Once baked, its as tough as any parkerizing job I have ever done. The color is called Milspec OD Gray.
                              Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum

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