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Bought an Import 60 Amp Dual Voltage Plasma (w/ Pilot Arc)

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  • Bought an Import 60 Amp Dual Voltage Plasma (w/ Pilot Arc)

    On 110V it would cut 1/8 "ok" and 1/4 with some headache. 3/8 I wouldn't even call severing.

    On 220V it cut 1/8 and 1/4 decently, but had to max amps and air pressure to cut 3/8. It would cut it, but it was slow and it blew sparks back towards the start of the cut. Cut towards you, not away. LOL. I was able to make a fair cut with some practice, but it was fairly slow. I won't even try anything thicker. The manual says it will "CUT" 22mm (about 7/8). I doubt it. Out of curiosity I pulled the O/A rig over and made a couple cuts. It was definitely faster and surprisingly cleaner. Atleast for me. On the other hand I made my first O/A cuts 40 years ago, and my first plasma cuts two days ago.

    Cleaner is misleading though. I had barely any slag with the O/A torch, but it was stuck pretty good. I had a lot of slag with the plasma cutter, but it came off fairly easily with my chipping hammer.

    I did find it was much easier to freehand cut straight with the limp lead and light torch of the plasma cutter.

    Honestly, I'll probably use the O/A rig most of the time still. Maybe just use the plasma for things like sheet metal and barrel heads.

    I was using clean dry air. It came through three filter separators and my refrigeration type air dryer. I did read in another group I might get better results with different tips.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  • #2
    They say 60% duty cycle. Maybe. We were doing testing on 3/8 by 3 mild steel flat bar. We never had any issues that felt like instability from overheating although I am not sure what that would feel like with a plasma torch. We cut all the way across every time. As long as torch distance and speed remained consistent the cut remained consistent.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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    • #3
      not sure if you have one of those cheap plasma cutters like I have, 50 amp rating 110/220 volts. what I did is to get a cheap roller attachment so the tip to keep a constant distance from the work. I had to mod the wheel height and make a special insert for my torch out of delrin and I find that it cuts far better and cleaner and thicker material and the tips last a long time.
      Ed
      Agua Dulce, So.California
      1950 F1 street rod
      1949 F1 stock V8 flathead
      1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed
      1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500
      1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor, king coil-overs,P/S

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      • #4
        Mine came with a roller attachment. I may try it again after I fix it, but with the screws snugged down it fell right off.

        *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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        • #5
          Torch consumables are sometimes junk in the cheapos and won't cut worth a sh*t.
          Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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          • #6
            I bought a dual voltage plasma cutter import that had good reviews and does what i need if I am not in a hurry. I run it at 220v with 80 lbs of air.The only issue is heat buildup which i believe contributes to the dross building up on the backside. I have read and viewed videos that recommend a water filled pan with the water at the level of the grating supporting the work to reduce heat buildup. I have some 22 ga sheet metal laying around so i’ll knock out a pan and see how it goes.

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