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"Home Shop Welding 101"

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  • Errol
    replied
    Nice job Torker! I've got a couple hundred butt joints to weld in 1 1/2" 0.100 sprinkler pipe. Building a short pipeline from my dugout to standpipe for my new shop Fire Suppression system.

    What I've done for years with this type of thin wall pipe, is use O/A, but I want to speed it up a bit, so I have been trying stick.

    Now the only stick I can get to function properly for me on this pipe is 3/32" 6010 or 6011, downhill welding running at just under 80 amps. Problem is I would rather use 3/32" 7018 which normally (on thicker pipe) gives me a more reliable joint.

    Does anyone have tips on how to use 7018 "vertical up" on thin material without blowing holes in the joint? Oh, this is an outside job, so can't use my wire feed.

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    The repaired one with the big blue spot...(Don't worry.. i fixed that ugly lil roll over...the rod sputtered)


    Here's the one with the smaller blue spot...this was worse than I thought.
    Notice the repair.. I've stacked the beads by cutting them in half. Notice also the ends...they are all staggered...you will avoid cracking if you do that.
    Why stringers? This is pretty old metal..to run big honkin weaves here would add stress the already stressed metal.
    I also ran stringers across the ends and around the outer corner...to add strength

    This was all done with 7018DC+ 1/8" rod @125 amps.

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by torker
    Guy brings in this ugly old homemade trailer.. I "strongly" suggested maybe i reweld some of the more critical welds... can any one spot why...lol!
    You're just being too picky Russ -- you're not doing aerospace welds you know...

    There's a professional welder in town likes to say "anyone with a denim shirt thinks they're a welder"

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    Here's one for you..."Problems from our shop"...er.. i guess it's just me now...lol!
    Guy brings in this ugly old homemade trailer.. I "strongly" suggested maybe i reweld some of the more critical welds... can any one spot why...lol!


    Oh boy.. the deeper you dig...
    See the blue spots? That's where someone just "slopped" weld on...there is no fusion under the blue spots..

    Notice the little wee blue spot and several small inclusions. This was just plain ugly about halfway down...still needs a little more grinding

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by torker
    All bad gas jokes aside.. I wouldn't bet too much money that Evan couldn't make this work..
    Yeah, but you know Evan -- he's going to say it worked no matter what

    Seriously, the problem I had was with the crap in the cheap party gas contaminating the TIG electrode. But since the electrode on MIG is consumable (i.e., the wire is feeding out) he'll probably be fine. If it's anything like the balloon gas I got in Austin, he'll get a lot of arc flashing and chemical contamination in the weld, but he's not doing aerospace stuff

    Leave a comment:


  • BadDog
    replied
    Originally posted by lazlo
    Russ, if you re-read Evan's post, he's saying he wants to weld aluminum without a spoolgun.
    Oops! I read it AND quoted it without registering the "out"... <sigh> Back to my hole under a rock...

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    All bad gas jokes aside.. I wouldn't bet too much money that Evan couldn't make this work..

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by BadDog
    He's talking about a spool gun (gonna be fun trying to hook to the 135).
    Russ, if you re-read Evan's post, he's saying he wants to weld aluminum without a spoolgun. Like bhjones says, MIG'ing aluminum is pretty dicey without a push-pull gun, even if you replace the rollers and use teflon liners.

    It helps a lot if you use 5356, and keep the lead as absolutely straight as possible.

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan
    H I have my little Miller 135, a roll of .025 aluminum mig wire and a 14.5 cubic foot tank of helium meant for balloons. I have checked and the helium is pure helium, not diluted (based on lift).
    I TIG welded aluminum with helium balloon gas (dc electrode positive), but the party gas has a ton of impurities, and the arc was very unstable. Industrial helium is much purer, which is why it's also more expensive.

    Leave a comment:


  • BadDog
    replied
    Originally posted by bhjones
    I was never able to get consistent wire feeding through my 175+ Lincoln, even using the alum liner and feed rolls. It would burn back to the tip or birdsnest at the feed rollers. I gave up and bought a tig welder.
    He's talking about a spool gun (gonna be fun trying to hook to the 135).
    Originally posted by Evan
    What's my chance of doing a little aluminum welding without a spool gun and using a jury rigged flow meter?
    Ever thought about adapting a "Ready Welder"?

    Leave a comment:


  • bhjones
    replied
    Aluminum is a sponge that'll soak up the heat and 135 amps is pretty light. I hope your welding thin material. Preheating will help if your wire will feed. Personally I was never able to get consistent wire feeding through my 175+ Lincoln, even using the alum liner and feed rolls. It would burn back to the tip or birdsnest at the feed rollers. I gave up and bought a tig welder.

    Originally posted by Evan
    OK, thanks. I'll give it a try soon. If anything turns out I'll post a pic for a critique.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan
    replied
    OK, thanks. I'll give it a try soon. If anything turns out I'll post a pic for a critique.

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    When in doubt... use 20 CFH. Really you could use prolly 12 CFH to 15 CFH with that little wire.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan
    replied
    Hey Russ,

    I have a question for you. I have my little Miller 135, a roll of .025 aluminum mig wire and a 14.5 cubic foot tank of helium meant for balloons. I have checked and the helium is pure helium, not diluted (based on lift). What's my chance of doing a little aluminum welding without a spool gun and using a jury rigged flow meter? What flow rate would I use?

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by torker
    Originally posted by Carld
    if you heat a piece up with a welding tip and when it's all good and red then turn more oxy to the flame it will cut the piece like a cutting torch. That is, if your a smooth operator.
    Carl.. LOL! another one I've never heard of..it makes sense tho.
    I've removed a broken tap that way: use the smallest welding tip you have (a 0 or 00), heat the broken tap in the blind hole until it's cherry red, and then turn the oxygen way up. The tap will disintegrate.

    Leave a comment:

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