"Home Shop Welding 101"

[torker]

The repaired one with the big blue spot...(Don't worry.. i fixed that ugly lil roll over...the rod sputtered)


Here's the one with the smaller blue spot...this was worse than I thought.
Notice the repair.. I've stacked the beads by cutting them in half. Notice also the ends...they are all staggered...you will avoid cracking if you do that.
Why stringers? This is pretty old metal..to run big honkin weaves here would add stress the already stressed metal.
I also ran stringers across the ends and around the outer corner...to add strength

This was all done with 7018DC+ 1/8" rod @125 amps.

[Errol]

Nice job Torker! I've got a couple hundred butt joints to weld in 1 1/2" 0.100 sprinkler pipe. Building a short pipeline from my dugout to standpipe for my new shop Fire Suppression system.

What I've done for years with this type of thin wall pipe, is use O/A, but I want to speed it up a bit, so I have been trying stick.

Now the only stick I can get to function properly for me on this pipe is 3/32" 6010 or 6011, downhill welding running at just under 80 amps. Problem is I would rather use 3/32" 7018 which normally (on thicker pipe) gives me a more reliable joint.

Does anyone have tips on how to use 7018 "vertical up" on thin material without blowing holes in the joint? Oh, this is an outside job, so can't use my wire feed.

[gnm109]

Good idea.

I'm a long-time home welder. I've been welding up motorcycle frames and accessories for many years. I do O-A, TIG and stick. I think that welding goes hand-in-hand with a home machinist's shop. I would welcome either a section on welding or a separate website. I'm certain tha tI could contribute a few items.

I visit several welding sites now that are frequented by "professionals" . I'm mainly a lurker but I can always learn more.

It's a really good idea to have a welding area similar to this website.

Regards to all.

[torker]

Errol..Have you got a rotator? I've done lots of thinner wall stuff with 3/32 7018 on a rotator. This allows you to weld "in the flat" for the whole joint.
Uphand with 7018 is going to be tough on that(but you can run it downhand also). You have the problem that 7018 can't "dig" like 6010 to make sure the root is in. Ooops..you said buttweld...then there is no bevel?
You could do it in quadrants or maybe thirds.. I'm just guessing here...are you doing long runs...more than two pipes together?
Is this stuff galvanized?

[Errol]

Torker, No rotator.

I'll be laying along side the pipe in a trench on a hill side that has a few zig zags, so can't rotate it unfortunately.

As for bevel, that would be simple, just a swipe with the angle grinder would do it, but my feeling was to keep as much "meat" as I could to hold the "puddle" in place.

As for Downhill with 7018, I've never had much luck with that. What's the trick?

I'll try a few practice joints on the bench this evening and try the downhill 7018. Too bad 7018 doesn't "whip". I'll also try some bevels and try different rod angles.

gnm109 has a great idea! I would agree with him....to Add (Insert) a completely new welding section on the first screen of this HSM forum. You know the one that has "General...Network...and Third Hand.

[torker]

Errol.. I'm not very good at downhand 7018.. I must have been at one time.. I passed the tests we had to do for journey status but have never done it since.. The guys in Alberta use it a lot for pipe(that goes in the ground).. Here...most of our pipe welding is above ground and the proceedures call for uphand only so that's all I ever did.
Biggest thing with any downhand is staying ahead of the puddle. You can wiggle it a bit side to side ..that helps. I'll try some later today when it cools off.

[lazlo]

Errol..Have you got a rotator? I've done lots of thinner wall stuff with 3/32 7018 on a rotator. This allows you to weld "in the flat" for the whole joint.

What's a rotator? Is that a ball joint on the stinger?

[torker]

Laz...nope...a positioner..
Errol.. hows dis??? (First time in about 15 years..)(downhand)
First pass... 3/32 7018 @ 95amps(from 2 oclock down...use a slight side to side motion... start pulling a slightly longer arc at 3 oclock.. will keep the slag backed up a bit better)

sorry for the crap pic.. the white spot is a "restart notch I ground in the start of the bead from the other direction.


Last pass..looking up from the bottom... Arrggghhh.. I held it just a second too long and got a snotgoobler..


A little more practice and we'd have it made! Forgot how I hate lil pipe.. you gotta change the rod angle SOOOO frikkin fast.
Russ

[Errol]

Wow! I'd sure be happy with that. Is that really .100 pipe?

Yah, changing rod angle is tricky for me too, I find cutting the rods in half helps a lot with the "shake factor".

Too hot here in Kamloops right now to put the mask on. Will try later this evening.

For Lazlo, the rotator is just a simple stand with rollers so you can rotate the pipe as you weld so you are always welding in the "flat" position.

[torker]

Wow! I'd sure be happy with that. Is that really .100 pipe?

Errol...sorry..it's not .100 wall. I didn't have any. It's .125 wall.
The .100 wall would be better actually. This... I have just a hint of a root peekin thru... if it was .100 wall it'd be a bit better.

[mikfish711]

Good morning all. First off let me say, I have been visiting for a while but just joined. There is a ton a great info here. I amy be your ultimate ginuea pig for this project (although you may not want to start as low as I am). I was recently given a small (110V)Campbell Hausfeld flux core/mig welder. I am extremely interested in learning but dont know where to start. I would love to take a class but am having trouble finding one so I figured I would start here. I will primarily be making very rudementary items such as exhaust and motor mount brackets for ATV and motorcycles out of mild steel that will be painted. So I think I may be a good candidate for your trials. Would it be possible to start with set up items such as metal prep, heat ranges, wire speed, angle of the guns, etc. (if you are willing to start with the noobiest of the noobs)? Thanks for all the great info!!!
Mike

[TexasTurnado]

I am extremely interested in learning but dont know where to start. I would love to take a class but am having trouble finding one so I figured I would start here.

If you have a Junior college there that has vocational classes you may find welding courses are offered. That's where I learned to TIG weld. The instructors I had were very good and no book or text will come close to watching a pro do it properly - or having him watch you and tell what you are doing wrong.

[torker]

I think a few of you here think i just fell off a turnip truck...so.. In the FUTURE...we will be learning how to weld Titainium...this is "sorta" how we do it..


trailing gas shield...made from a couple cents worth of alu foil.
This.. how to rescue a Polaris shift rod in a hurry.

Don't worry.. this "thread" is "sorta" on track. It will be a little different than you think..
BTW... if you have the cheapest 110V FC welder on earth... you get what you pay for. I've NEVER bought one of these. I HAVE used them...all I can say.. if it's cheap enough.. turn it up as high as it will go and hope for the best. My opinion only.. I really hate those little machines. They make the beautiful "art" of welding a farce...it's more like "hold my breath and hope it works"
Russ

[Evan]

Russ,

Get a tripod.

[lazlo]

I'd love to learn how to TIG titanium, but the cost of the coupons would really suck, at $15/lb! That's another good reason to take the advanced TIG class at the local CC.