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Portable grinder cord replacement ?

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  • Portable grinder cord replacement ?

    The electrical cord on my B & D Wildcat grinder is frayed at end of the strain relief boot from DAs winding the cord up wrong.
    First if I take the handle apart are parts going to come flying out. Can this just be cut off and shortened or can the area at the end of the Boot be wrapped with tape for additional support. This thing pulls like 16 amps and I have not been able to locally find a cord would make a replacement at a suitable price. I can order a new cord online but that is going to take a while due to the holidays.
    Byron Boucher
    Burnet, TX

  • #2
    Order a new cord! The present one can be taped or shortened, but will not last. This is one of the weak spots on all corded tools.



    • #3
      if your handle halves have the metal insert nuts on the back half of the screws i would recommend you spray a little de-rust soaking stuff on them for about a half day before you try to even loosen them.

      if they strip in the handle you will have a problem.

      the good neews: new handle halves are available from dewalt but the dang things are yellow

      no magic inside, just some wires and crimp on connectors.


      • #4

        Boucher , order the new cord and when it comes in replace the old one , but for the meantime , if the individual wires in the cord are not damaged tape it up and it can still be used . Saving a damaged cord is not worth the inherent danger of electrical shocks . I have had the cord on my 4-1/2" Metabo grinder get cut in half by a wafer wheel and the breaker did not trip . I was shocked when I priced a new cord through the local tool dealer but found the correct cord from MSC for around $10 ea and ordered two of them . Dan


        • #5
          those b/d cords for the big grinders are around $25 plus at least $9 shipping and handling from dewalt.

          fixing the cord certainly depends on the condition of the rest of the cord. . . . .


          • #6
            I would use an extension cord.

            I have always replaced the cords on grinders and drills with the best quality extension cord that I can find. They are locally purchased so not hard to get. This may be more expensive, but with a 15 foot cord vs. a 5 foot cord, you have rare occasions where an extension cord is needed vs. the rare occasions that one is not needed. I am not talking about the thin jacketed indoor cords, but 12 ga or even 10 ga if I thought I needed it outdoor cords. Typically the 12 ga. will have a thicker jacket than 14 or 16 ga. I use the boot if I can, but only twice ever found them to be in reuseable condition. The higher density cord jacket works better, it is slicker and less prone to snag, does not break down and crack as quickly as the OEM SOW or SOOW on a grinder either. It may melt quicker, but situational awareness keeps the cord off of fresh welds and out from under beams and pipes. I use Scotch: Super 33+ wrapped tightly around the entrance to the tool, as a sort of cord grip where there is generally a cord grip of sorts using the boot.
            Kevin Duffy


            • #7
              I cut ALL the cords off my hand tools down to 6" when new.
              That way, one extension cord gets me where I need to go and the tools fit neatly onto open shelves without the cords unwrapping and draping all over the place. Plus, I don't trip on a long cord when I've got my hands full and moving around.
              Just shorten the OE cord from inside the handle and it looks stock.


              • #8
                Black and Decker parts and manuals It'll give you an idea of how it comes apart and what is going to fly apart .


                • #9
                  I've had success with frayed cords like that by extending the strain relief beyond the dammaged part. Thick wall pastic tube can be split lenghtwise to get it on the cord then fastened in place via glue, whip, zip-tie, etc.

                  The tubing has to be securely fastened to the old strain relief as well as the cord.

                  This assumes there is nothing electrically wrong with the cord. It does move the stress point further down the cord.

                  At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

                  Location: SF East Bay.


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by QSIMDO

                    I cut ALL the cords off my hand tools down to 6" when new.
                    That is an excellent idea.


                    • #11
                      Actually, I do just the opposite- I put longer ones on- at least on my saws. i want to be able to rip a 9' sheet of plywood withOUT having the cord hang up on the edge of the sheet! I also convert to twist lock so it doesn't come undone. I don't have to worry about loaning them out that way either.

                      I fix a lot of small angle grinders as the guys use them with diamond blades to cut stone. They destroy the brushes in short order. They come apart easily, nothing every flies out and I have myriad old but good cords that I have salvaged. They are quite easy to work on. I would never buy a new cord but rather solder new lugs onto the shortened cord. Much cheaper and just as good.